I am looking to buy a new PC to play Witcher 2, DIablo 3, Starcraft 2, and new games that come out on max setting. Does this look like a good build for $1500? Thanks for the input. Intel Z68 Core i3/i5/i7 Configurator 1 x Case ( Xion Echo Gaming Case - Black ) 0 x Case Lighting ( None ) 0 x iBUYPOWER Labs - Noise Reduction ( None ) 0 x iBUYPOWER Labs - Internal Expansion ( None ) 1 x Processor ( Intel® Core i7-2700K Processor (4x 3.50GHz/8MB L3 Cache) - Intel Core i7-2700K ) 0 x iBUYPOWER PowerDrive ( None ) 1 x Processor Cooling ( Liquid CPU Cooling System [SOCKET-1155] - Standard 120mm Fan ) 1 x Memory ( 8 GB [4 GB X2] DDR3-1600 Memory Module - Corsair or Major Brand ) 1 x Video Card ( NVIDIA GeForce GTX 670 - 2GB - Single Card ) 1 x Video Card Brand ( Major Brand Powered by AMD or NVIDIA ) 1 x Free Stuff ( [Free Game Download] - Mass Effect 3 - with purchase of Intel X79 chipset based systems, or with Intel Core i7 3770K ) 1 x Motherboard ( [SLI] ASRock Z77 Extreme6 -- 2x PCI-E 3.0 x16, 4x USB 3.0 ) 1 x Intel Smart Response Technology ( SSD Cache - 40 GB Intel 320 Series ) 1 x Power Supply ( 800 Watt - Standard ) 1 x Primary Hard Drive ( 2 TB HARD DRIVE -- 64M Cache, 7200rpm, 6.0Gb/s - Single Drive ) 0 x Data Hard Drive ( None ) 1 x Optical Drive ( 24X Dual Format/Double Layer DVD±R/±RW + CD-R/RW Drive - Black ) 0 x 2nd Optical Drive ( None ) 0 x Flash Media Reader / Writer ( None ) 0 x Meter Display ( None ) 0 x USB Expansion ( None ) 1 x Sound Card ( 3D Premium Surround Sound Onboard ) 1 x Network Card ( Onboard LAN Network (Gb or 10/100) ) 1 x Operating System ( Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium + Office Starter 2010 (Includes basic versions of Word and Excel) - 64-Bit ) 1 x Keyboard ( iBUYPOWER USB Keyboard ) 1 x Mouse ( iBUYPOWER Internet Mouse )
Well Just change the cpu to a i5 2500k or an i5 3570k and change the power supply to a 750w name brand psu like corsair, or xfx, or even thermaltake over the standard psu option
Well Just change the cpu to a i5 2500k or an i5 3570k and change the power supply to a 750w name brand psu like corsair, or xfx, or even thermaltake over the standard psu option 04dcarraher
indeed a 2700k is all of like 5% better than a 2500k and costs almost 200 bucks more :P. then cut the power supply down to a 750 watt.
I decided I would buy the part individually from newegg and save myself almost 700 dollars, my next question is from my old PC what can easily be swapped over, I figured my 8gb of ram, cd drive, network card, and use old harddrive for secondary drive (new ssd would be OS drive). Anything else that could be reused? Thanks
yeah for $1500 you should definatley be able to get a 7970 or 680, i know the 670 has very good price per performance but the other cards are still faster and OC to even higher levels. I paid $500 for my 7970 and i still dont regret it, its a great card and much more powerful than my old 5830
Would this PSu be ok if i brought a new PC and wanted to overclock or sli/cross depending which graphic card i got. Or would a 850 PSu be more suitable?.
I decided I would buy the part individually from newegg and save myself almost 700 dollars, my next question is from my old PC what can easily be swapped over, I figured my 8gb of ram, cd drive, network card, and use old harddrive for secondary drive (new ssd would be OS drive). Anything else that could be reused? ThanksShulik
If your RAM is DDR3, you can keep it. If your CD drive and hard drive are SATA, same thing---that mobo doesn't have old-style IDE, as far as I can tell. Your SSD isn't big enough for the OS, and you're using it as a cache already, anyway, which is the right thing to do with a small one like that. The mobo grabs the SSD and caches for your 2T drive with it---you never see the SSD as a drive per se. I hear that that works well. That mobo has ethernet on board, so you won't need your network card unless you're doing some kind of multiplayer thing with two (I don't know what that is, but I've heard stories). What else you got?
How do I tell if my current cd drive is a SATA drive and if my current RAM is DDR3? Do I need to open up my case? My current PC is about a 3 year old Dell. I saw newegg has a Zotac 670 but now I am thinking of waiting on a 680.
How do I tell if my current cd drive is a SATA drive and if my current RAM is DDR3? Do I need to open up my case? My current PC is about a 3 year old Dell. I saw newegg has a Zotac 670 but now I am thinking of waiting on a 680. Shulik
Speccy or CPUZ will tell you about your memory. Open the case and look for old IDE cables coming from your drives---they're the flat, wide ones with a zillion wires embedded in them and a connector like a harmonica. SATA cables are sleek and narrow with small connectors. Do an image search if you're confused.
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