Temp & Overclock Queries!
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Good point, will check that out. Am I right in thinking that the PSU can make a difference to CPU temperature?richyroo1Gamespot ate my post, itll probably show up later. But what I said was that the PSU can make a rig unstable by giving wavering power on the rails. Some PSUs can run pretty hot but I can't imagine one raising a temperature beyond a couple of degrees. Also since it is 60-70 while idle, that rules out the PSU I think. I still believe it is a contact issue with the heatsink/cpu. If you absolutely rule that out though try running it with the side door open and an oscilating fan or floor fan blowing on the mobo and all the components, that'll show you if it is due to your system fans.
Gamespot ate my post, itll probably show up later. But what I said was that the PSU can make a rig unstable by giving wavering power on the rails. Some PSUs can run pretty hot but I can't imagine one raising a temperature beyond a couple of degrees. Also since it is 60-70 while idle, that rules out the PSU I think. I still believe it is a contact issue with the heatsink/cpu. If you absolutely rule that out though try running it with the side door open and an oscilating fan or floor fan blowing on the mobo and all the components, that'll show you if it is due to your system fans.[QUOTE="richyroo1"]Good point, will check thaOh okt out. Am I right in thinking that the PSU can make a difference to CPU temperature?Zaber123
OK, that sounds like a good idea, thanks. I'm off to get some cleaning fluid now so I should be able to test later on. I'll let you know what happens.
[QUOTE="Zaber123"]Gamespot ate my post, itll probably show up later. But what I said was that the PSU can make a rig unstable by giving wavering power on the rails. Some PSUs can run pretty hot but I can't imagine one raising a temperature beyond a couple of degrees. Also since it is 60-70 while idle, that rules out the PSU I think. I still believe it is a contact issue with the heatsink/cpu. If you absolutely rule that out though try running it with the side door open and an oscilating fan or floor fan blowing on the mobo and all the components, that'll show you if it is due to your system fans.[QUOTE="richyroo1"]Good point, will check thaOh okt out. Am I right in thinking that the PSU can make a difference to CPU temperature?richyroo1
OK, that sounds like a good idea, thanks. I'm off to get some cleaning fluid now so I should be able to test later on. I'll let you know what happens.
I wouldn't use too much paste either. Spread on thin and even with a razor blade. Heat sinks gotta be tight of course too. Don't over look system fans too. Make sure to check direction of fans to make sure they're not all blowing inward. That would keep hot air festering inside of your box. For every in fan, there should be an out fan. Air flow pattern should make sense as well. The fan rotation and airflow directions should be posted on the fan body. It'll be hard to see on some fans though, most likely as raised arrows in the plastic body of them. Overclocking is best with liquid
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835108075
[QUOTE="richyroo1"][QUOTE="Zaber123"]Gamespot ate my post, itll probably show up later. But what I said was that the PSU can make a rig unstable by giving wavering power on the rails. Some PSUs can run pretty hot but I can't imagine one raising a temperature beyond a couple of degrees. Also since it is 60-70 while idle, that rules out the PSU I think. I still believe it is a contact issue with the heatsink/cpu. If you absolutely rule that out though try running it with the side door open and an oscilating fan or floor fan blowing on the mobo and all the components, that'll show you if it is due to your system fans.[QUOTE="richyroo1"]Good point, will check thaOh okt out. Am I right in thinking that the PSU can make a difference to CPU temperature?sogviamask
OK, that sounds like a good idea, thanks. I'm off to get some cleaning fluid now so I should be able to test later on. I'll let you know what happens.
I wouldn't use too much paste either. Spread on thin and even with a razor blade. Heat sinks gotta be tight of course too. Don't over look system fans too. Make sure to check direction of fans to make sure they're not all blowing inward. That would keep hot air festering inside of your box. For every in fan, there should be an out fan. Air flow pattern should make sense as well. The fan rotation and airflow directions should be posted on the fan body. It'll be hard to see on some fans though, most likely as raised arrows in the plastic body of them. Overclocking is best with liquid
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835108075
Well it's all back together again and happier than ever. Idle temps are around 40-44 (measured with Intel TAT) which I'm really pleased with though its not as good as it could be. You mentioned having 1 fan in for every fan out, well I have 3 out and only 2 in. Should I get another? I wasn't aware of this rule before. I realise I'm not going to achieve a massive OC with my setup, and indeed I don't want to. I just want to have a play and see what's it's all about and whether I get an increase in performance - I won't be changing any voltages. So what do you think now? Is 40ish OK? Or should I get another fan, or somethingelse?
1. Read This
2. Here is alot about core 2 temperatures
You should be good to do a little overclocking, although I'd still read that to see what is safe. Throttle limit on an e6600 is around 85 degrees on a TAT full load. I personally wouldn't want to get that high, and you dont wan't to be constantly sitting on 65-70. Tell me how it goes.
[QUOTE="sogviamask"][QUOTE="richyroo1"][QUOTE="Zaber123"]Gamespot ate my post, itll probably show up later. But what I said was that the PSU can make a rig unstable by giving wavering power on the rails. Some PSUs can run pretty hot but I can't imagine one raising a temperature beyond a couple of degrees. Also since it is 60-70 while idle, that rules out the PSU I think. I still believe it is a contact issue with the heatsink/cpu. If you absolutely rule that out though try running it with the side door open and an oscilating fan or floor fan blowing on the mobo and all the components, that'll show you if it is due to your system fans.[QUOTE="richyroo1"]Good point, will check thaOh okt out. Am I right in thinking that the PSU can make a difference to CPU temperature?richyroo1
OK, that sounds like a good idea, thanks. I'm off to get some cleaning fluid now so I should be able to test later on. I'll let you know what happens.
I wouldn't use too much paste either. Spread on thin and even with a razor blade. Heat sinks gotta be tight of course too. Don't over look system fans too. Make sure to check direction of fans to make sure they're not all blowing inward. That would keep hot air festering inside of your box. For every in fan, there should be an out fan. Air flow pattern should make sense as well. The fan rotation and airflow directions should be posted on the fan body. It'll be hard to see on some fans though, most likely as raised arrows in the plastic body of them. Overclocking is best with liquid
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835108075
Well it's all back together again and happier than ever. Idle temps are around 40-44 (measured with Intel TAT) which I'm really pleased with though its not as good as it could be. You mentioned having 1 fan in for every fan out, well I have 3 out and only 2 in. Should I get another? I wasn't aware of this rule before. I realise I'm not going to achieve a massive OC with my setup, and indeed I don't want to. I just want to have a play and see what's it's all about and whether I get an increase in performance - I won't be changing any voltages. So what do you think now? Is 40ish OK? Or should I get another fan, or somethingelse?
The safest way to OC is with FSB frequency manipulation. But I believe the board has to be setup for that, or have that feature in the BIOS to do this easily. Most build your own system boards have this to some degree. Check your BIOS setup features under CPU headings and see what you have. Voltage tweaks can be dangerous, and instantly fry your chip. Note what your normal voltage is in the BIOS first. If you do voltage tweaking, you must increment by the lowest step available on your BIOS and then test that setting by playing your favorite, most graphic/cpu intense game for stability. By that I mean don't go more than one "+" keypress for CPU voltage in the BIOS . Unless your board supports 0.001V increments, then you could step by 0.005 to 0.010V increments each iteration of testing.
FSB manipulation takes the cpu clock multiplier and multiplies by the clock number. A 4300 has stock 200FSB and multiplier of 9 for 1800Mhz or 1.8G. The board I have allows for 90-340 FSB, so 270 FSB * 9 = 2.44Ghz. I tried 300 and it wouldn't boot. At that point I may have to add some voltage or accept that I'm limited to 280 or 290 FSB on that chip with my board. Believe me, it's plenty fast enough having a C2D at 2.53G for my gaming...
This is why I have a 4300 for playing around with OC. If I fry it, I'm only out ~$100. I'll buy another...
1. Read This
2. Here is alot about core 2 temperaturesYou should be good to do a little overclocking, although I'd still read that to see what is safe. Throttle limit on an e6600 is around 85 degrees on a TAT full load. I personally wouldn't want to get that high, and you dont wan't to be constantly sitting on 65-70. Tell me how it goes.
Zaber123
I agree, I wouldn't want to go that high at all. So I'll have to watch my temps carefully. As I said before, I'm using TAT for my temps but is it generally more accurate than my BIOS becasue they're about 5-10 different?
[QUOTE="richyroo1"][QUOTE="sogviamask"][QUOTE="richyroo1"][QUOTE="Zaber123"]Gamespot ate my post, itll probably show up later. But what I said was that the PSU can make a rig unstable by giving wavering power on the rails. Some PSUs can run pretty hot but I can't imagine one raising a temperature beyond a couple of degrees. Also since it is 60-70 while idle, that rules out the PSU I think. I still believe it is a contact issue with the heatsink/cpu. If you absolutely rule that out though try running it with the side door open and an oscilating fan or floor fan blowing on the mobo and all the components, that'll show you if it is due to your system fans.[QUOTE="richyroo1"]Good point, will check thaOh okt out. Am I right in thinking that the PSU can make a difference to CPU temperature?sogviamask
OK, that sounds like a good idea, thanks. I'm off to get some cleaning fluid now so I should be able to test later on. I'll let you know what happens.
I wouldn't use too much paste either. Spread on thin and even with a razor blade. Heat sinks gotta be tight of course too. Don't over look system fans too. Make sure to check direction of fans to make sure they're not all blowing inward. That would keep hot air festering inside of your box. For every in fan, there should be an out fan. Air flow pattern should make sense as well. The fan rotation and airflow directions should be posted on the fan body. It'll be hard to see on some fans though, most likely as raised arrows in the plastic body of them. Overclocking is best with liquid
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835108075
Well it's all back together again and happier than ever. Idle temps are around 40-44 (measured with Intel TAT) which I'm really pleased with though its not as good as it could be. You mentioned having 1 fan in for every fan out, well I have 3 out and only 2 in. Should I get another? I wasn't aware of this rule before. I realise I'm not going to achieve a massive OC with my setup, and indeed I don't want to. I just want to have a play and see what's it's all about and whether I get an increase in performance - I won't be changing any voltages. So what do you think now? Is 40ish OK? Or should I get another fan, or somethingelse?
The safest way to OC is with FSB frequency manipulation. But I believe the board has to be setup for that, or have that feature in the BIOS to do this easily. Most build your own system boards have this to some degree. Check your BIOS setup features under CPU headings and see what you have. Voltage tweaks can be dangerous, and instantly fry your chip. Note what your normal voltage is in the BIOS first. If you do voltage tweaking, you must increment by the lowest step available on your BIOS and then test that setting by playing your favorite, most graphic/cpu intense game for stability. By that I mean don't go more than one "+" keypress for CPU voltage in the BIOS . Unless your board supports 0.001V increments, then you could step by 0.005 to 0.010V increments each iteration of testing.
FSB manipulation takes the cpu clock multiplier and multiplies by the clock number. A 4300 has stock 200FSB and multiplier of 9 for 1800Mhz or 1.8G. The board I have allows for 90-340 FSB, so 270 FSB * 9 = 2.44Ghz. I tried 300 and it wouldn't boot. At that point I may have to add some voltage or accept that I'm limited to 280 or 290 FSB on that chip with my board. Believe me, it's plenty fast enough having a C2D at 2.53G for my gaming...
This is why I have a 4300 for playing around with OC. If I fry it, I'm only out ~$100. I'll buy another...
Thanks for that. I've checked my BIOS and my multiplier is already set at the highest of 9. I'm not going to mess with my voltages just FSB I think. In my BIOS though it is set to auto default but when I go to change it I have a choice of 3 - auto, linked and unlinked. I'm assuming that means with the RAM but what do i want to choose? What are the consequences of each? Not quite sure where to go.
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