Thoughts on Harman Kardon SoundSticks III vs Klipsch pro-media. Gaming speakers

Hi all,

I am looking at getting a new 2.1 or above speaker set-up for my PC (primarily for gaming with some music playback thrown in for good measure) and I stumbled across these on Amazon for a decent price. After lightly skimming a few reviews, they seem to be quite good speakers.

Now another speaker set which I seem to hearing quite alot about, especially on this forum are the Klipsch pro-media which everyone seems to praise.

My budget is quite flexible and I am not too fussed on 2.1 or 5.1 set-ups, as my PC is set up in a way in which a 5.1 system is essentially a wall of speakers.

It would be great to hear what you guys and girls have to say! For reference, my soundcard is a Creative Recon 3D

Thanks!

TL:DR What are some good gaming speakers that will deliver best bang for my buck.

the only board in which people seem to hate the brand for some reason1che3zeman1

Anyways the better recommendation is to purchase separates:

Dayton DTA-1 Class T Amplifier + Dayton B652 Bookshelf speakers ($58)

Dayton 10inch Subwoofer SUB-1000 ($99)

Speaker wire ($4)

TOTAL: $161

The sound produced by this setup is on a completely different level than the Logitech, Klipsch or Harman systems. Using real speakers, amplifier and subwoofer will get you the best results.

[QUOTE="1che3zeman1"]the only board in which people seem to hate the brand for some reasonNVIDIATI

Anyways the better recommendation is to purchase separates:

Dayton DTA-1 Class T Amplifier + Dayton B652 Bookshelf speakers ($58)

Dayton 10inch Subwoofer SUB-1000 ($99)

Speaker wire ($4)

TOTAL: $161

The sound produced by this setup is on a completely different level than the Logitech, Klipsch or Harman systems. Using real speakers, amplifier and subwoofer will get you the best results.

Isn't 15WPC a little low?

Isn't 15WPC a little low?

kraken2109

Or do what I did. I bought the Klipsch Promedia 5.1 and quickly replaced the dinky satellite speakers with full range HT speakers (in my case, the Definitive Technology StudioMonitor 350). Awesome sound quality and much better than the dinky stock Klipsch PM speakers.

Just ensure that you buy a set that has an outboard independent control unit; you're outta luck if you have a setup with the control unit built into one of the speakers.

Or do what I did. I bought the Klipsch Promedia 5.1 and quickly replaced the dinky satellite speakers with full range HT speakers (in my case, the Definitive Technology StudioMonitor 350). Awesome sound quality and much better than the dinky stock Klipsch PM speakers.

Just ensure that you buy a set that has an outboard independent control unit; you're outta luck if you have a setup with the control unit built into one of the speakers.

GalvatronType_R

Best performance / value would be the DIY set up NVIDIATI posted, but for simplicity the Klipsch promedia 2.1 is a great choice also.

The DIY route suggested by NVIDIATI is the best value for your dollar, but requires some work on your part to hook everything up. Bozanimal

PC-->T-amp-->Subwoofer-->Speakers

PC to T-amp with a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable.

T-amp to subwoofer high pass input with speaker cable.

Subwoofer high pass output to speakers with speaker cable.

[QUOTE="NVIDIATI"]

[QUOTE="1che3zeman1"]the only board in which people seem to hate the brand for some reasonkraken2109

Anyways the better recommendation is to purchase separates:

Dayton DTA-1 Class T Amplifier + Dayton B652 Bookshelf speakers ($58)

Dayton 10inch Subwoofer SUB-1000 ($99)

Speaker wire ($4)

TOTAL: $161

The sound produced by this setup is on a completely different level than the Logitech, Klipsch or Harman systems. Using real speakers, amplifier and subwoofer will get you the best results.

Isn't 15WPC a little low?

Bumped.

Curious about what the OP went with since I am at the same crossroads Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 or Soundsticks III. They both cost the same where I am so it's really a question of sound.

Not a bass junkie but I need these for music and gaming. Do not need an Amp or soundcard (already have those top of the line-ish models). All help appreciated.

Klipsch out of the two.

[QUOTE="1che3zeman1"]the only board in which people seem to hate the brand for some reasonNVIDIATI

Anyways the better recommendation is to purchase separates:

Dayton DTA-1 Class T Amplifier + Dayton B652 Bookshelf speakers ($58)

Dayton 10inch Subwoofer SUB-1000 ($99)

Speaker wire ($4)

TOTAL: $161

The sound produced by this setup is on a completely different level than the Logitech, Klipsch or Harman systems. Using real speakers, amplifier and subwoofer will get you the best results.

I'm not saying that the setup you suggested won't sound great, but you don't need a subwoofer if you have "real" speakers.

Klipsch Promedia 2.1 out of the options you listed. I have it, and it sounds fantastic for the price. I've always been a fan of the in-your-face Klipsch sound (used to have a set of KLF-10 towers), and the Promedia system has that quality. I once set up my PC speakers and sub in the media room (12 feet wide and 20 feet deep), with a satellite on either side of the TV at the corners of the room. The sub was in the middle. I listened to a variety of different types of music, and the little Promedia system filled the whole room. It literally sounded almost as full as the KG-3's that I had running off my Adcom amp.

[QUOTE="NVIDIATI"]

[QUOTE="1che3zeman1"]the only board in which people seem to hate the brand for some reasonhartsickdiscipl

Anyways the better recommendation is to purchase separates:

Dayton DTA-1 Class T Amplifier + Dayton B652 Bookshelf speakers ($58)

Dayton 10inch Subwoofer SUB-1000 ($99)

Speaker wire ($4)

TOTAL: $161

The sound produced by this setup is on a completely different level than the Logitech, Klipsch or Harman systems. Using real speakers, amplifier and subwoofer will get you the best results.

I'm not saying that the setup you suggested won't sound great, but you don't need a subwoofer if you have "real" speakers.

While I would agree that's true for most music, most bookshelf speakers don't respond well below 60hz so a sub can help with films and games as well as certain music genres.

[QUOTE="hartsickdiscipl"]

I'm not saying that the setup you suggested won't sound great, but you don't need a subwoofer if you have "real" speakers.

kraken2109

While I would agree that's true for most music, most bookshelf speakers don't respond well below 60hz so a sub can help with films and games as well as certain music genres.

I disagree the majority of modern music has plenty of bass well below 60hz even if you only take into account music using only instruments the piano lowest note is 27.5hz a double bass lowest note is 41hz with 5 string and 31hz with a 6 string and that's similar for a bass guitar and a tuba can play down to 30hz and even lower. If you have speakers that are flat down to 30hz then I would be more inclined to agree that a sub is not needed for most music but speakers that can do that are going to be large and expensive and will need an expensive high powered amp. Its easier,more practical, and cheaper to reproduce low frequncies by using a sub alongside speakers not to mention 30hz isn't even the limit of our hearing which is closer to 20hz why not aim to have a system that can at least reproduce everything where capable of hearing?

[QUOTE="hartsickdiscipl"]

[QUOTE="NVIDIATI"] Or any other reputable audio board... Logitech cannot even compare to a proper setup.

Anyways the better recommendation is to purchase separates:

Dayton DTA-1 Class T Amplifier + Dayton B652 Bookshelf speakers ($58)

Dayton 10inch Subwoofer SUB-1000 ($99)

Speaker wire ($4)

TOTAL: $161

The sound produced by this setup is on a completely different level than the Logitech, Klipsch or Harman systems. Using real speakers, amplifier and subwoofer will get you the best results.

kraken2109

I'm not saying that the setup you suggested won't sound great, but you don't need a subwoofer if you have "real" speakers.

While I would agree that's true for most music, most bookshelf speakers don't respond well below 60hz so a sub can help with films and games as well as certain music genres.

[QUOTE="kraken2109"]

[QUOTE="hartsickdiscipl"]

I'm not saying that the setup you suggested won't sound great, but you don't need a subwoofer if you have "real" speakers.

DJ_Headshot

While I would agree that's true for most music, most bookshelf speakers don't respond well below 60hz so a sub can help with films and games as well as certain music genres.

I disagree the majority of modern music has plenty of bass well below 60hz even if you only take into account music using only instruments the piano lowest note is 27.5hz a double bass lowest note is 41hz with 5 string and 31hz with a 6 string and that's similar for a bass guitar and a tuba can play down to 30hz and even lower. If you have speakers that are flat down to 30hz then I would be more inclined to agree that a sub is not needed for most music but speakers that can do that are going to be large and expensive and will need an expensive high powered amp. Its easier,more practical, and cheaper to reproduce low frequncies by using a sub alongside speakers not to mention 30hz isn't even the limit of our hearing which is closer to 20hz why not aim to have a system that can at least reproduce everything where capable of hearing?

Show me a speaker that will play flat to 20hz. For example, B&W Nautilous 800 ($16,000 for a pair, plus the need for a very powerful amp) will do 32hz-28khz (-3db)kraken2109

Gershman Acoustics Black Swan (~30k) uses a Peerless driver to hit down to 18Hz. The fact is, there are plenty of high end speakers that can hit those low notes, but most of them are just using massive drivers in each tower.

[QUOTE="kraken2109"]Show me a speaker that will play flat to 20hz. For example, B&W Nautilous 800 ($16,000 for a pair, plus the need for a very powerful amp) will do 32hz-28khz (-3db)NVIDIATI

Gershman Acoustics Black Swan (~30k) uses a Peerless driver to hit down to 18Hz. The fact is, there are plenty of high end speakers that can hit those low notes, but most of them are just using massive drivers in each tower.

Just get a set of AAD 2001's and a decent amp. Adcom GFA-555 or the like and you're set. Granted, you will be spending more than $150:P

[QUOTE="DJ_Headshot"]

[QUOTE="kraken2109"]

While I would agree that's true for most music, most bookshelf speakers don't respond well below 60hz so a sub can help with films and games as well as certain music genres.

kraken2109

I disagree the majority of modern music has plenty of bass well below 60hz even if you only take into account music using only instruments the piano lowest note is 27.5hz a double bass lowest note is 41hz with 5 string and 31hz with a 6 string and that's similar for a bass guitar and a tuba can play down to 30hz and even lower. If you have speakers that are flat down to 30hz then I would be more inclined to agree that a sub is not needed for most music but speakers that can do that are going to be large and expensive and will need an expensive high powered amp. Its easier,more practical, and cheaper to reproduce low frequncies by using a sub alongside speakers not to mention 30hz isn't even the limit of our hearing which is closer to 20hz why not aim to have a system that can at least reproduce everything where capable of hearing?

B1tch please! :P the best sound systems in the world like the Snell THX Reference go down to sub 1hz

:P

Nah but seriously, most high end speakers produce more than enough bass to make sub woofers irrelevant for most people. Not me though.

[QUOTE="kraken2109"][QUOTE="DJ_Headshot"]

I disagree the majority of modern music has plenty of bass well below 60hz even if you only take into account music using only instruments the piano lowest note is 27.5hz a double bass lowest note is 41hz with 5 string and 31hz with a 6 string and that's similar for a bass guitar and a tuba can play down to 30hz and even lower. If you have speakers that are flat down to 30hz then I would be more inclined to agree that a sub is not needed for most music but speakers that can do that are going to be large and expensive and will need an expensive high powered amp. Its easier,more practical, and cheaper to reproduce low frequncies by using a sub alongside speakers not to mention 30hz isn't even the limit of our hearing which is closer to 20hz why not aim to have a system that can at least reproduce everything where capable of hearing?

Mozelleple112

B1tch please! :P the best sound systems in the world like the Snell THX Reference go down to sub 1hz

:P

Nah but seriously, most high end speakers produce more than enough bass to make sub woofers irrelevant for most people. Not me though.

Seems this one got derailed pretty quick. But to chip in I went with HK Soundsticks III over Klipsch. I found the sound to be much more cleaner and crisp on the soundsticks and +1 for the looks. Also after setting them up with my rig, I am most satisfied, convinced and at times even impressed with the Soundsticks III.

[QUOTE="1che3zeman1"]the only board in which people seem to hate the brand for some reasonNVIDIATI

Anyways the better recommendation is to purchase separates:

Dayton DTA-1 Class T Amplifier + Dayton B652 Bookshelf speakers ($58)

Dayton 10inch Subwoofer SUB-1000 ($99)

Speaker wire ($4)

TOTAL: $161

The sound produced by this setup is on a completely different level than the Logitech, Klipsch or Harman systems. Using real speakers, amplifier and subwoofer will get you the best results.

[QUOTE="NVIDIATI"]

[QUOTE="1che3zeman1"]the only board in which people seem to hate the brand for some reasonhartsickdiscipl

Anyways the better recommendation is to purchase separates:

Dayton DTA-1 Class T Amplifier + Dayton B652 Bookshelf speakers ($58)

Dayton 10inch Subwoofer SUB-1000 ($99)

Speaker wire ($4)

TOTAL: $161

The sound produced by this setup is on a completely different level than the Logitech, Klipsch or Harman systems. Using real speakers, amplifier and subwoofer will get you the best results.

I'm not saying that the setup you suggested won't sound great, but you don't need a subwoofer if you have "real" speakers.

[QUOTE="Mozelleple112"]

[QUOTE="kraken2109"] Show me a speaker that will play flat to 20hz. For example, B&W Nautilous 800 ($16,000 for a pair, plus the need for a very powerful amp) will do 32hz-28khz (-3db)kraken2109

B1tch please! :P the best sound systems in the world like the Snell THX Reference go down to sub 1hz

:P

Nah but seriously, most high end speakers produce more than enough bass to make sub woofers irrelevant for most people. Not me though.

[QUOTE="hartsickdiscipl"]

[QUOTE="NVIDIATI"] Or any other reputable audio board... Logitech cannot even compare to a proper setup.

Anyways the better recommendation is to purchase separates:

Dayton DTA-1 Class T Amplifier + Dayton B652 Bookshelf speakers ($58)

Dayton 10inch Subwoofer SUB-1000 ($99)

Speaker wire ($4)

TOTAL: $161

The sound produced by this setup is on a completely different level than the Logitech, Klipsch or Harman systems. Using real speakers, amplifier and subwoofer will get you the best results.

Wolfetan

I'm not saying that the setup you suggested won't sound great, but you don't need a subwoofer if you have "real" speakers.

I think you should visit my place and I'll show you what I mean.  

[QUOTE="Wolfetan"][QUOTE="hartsickdiscipl"]

I'm not saying that the setup you suggested won't sound great, but you don't need a subwoofer if you have "real" speakers.

hartsickdiscipl

I think you should visit my place and I'll show you what I mean.  

[QUOTE="hartsickdiscipl"]

[QUOTE="Wolfetan"] Talk about getting dumber from a post.Wolfetan

I think you should visit my place and I'll show you what I mean.  

I'll take that trade.  I'm not much of a headphone guy.  

[QUOTE="Wolfetan"][QUOTE="hartsickdiscipl"]

 

I think you should visit my place and I'll show you what I mean.  

hartsickdiscipl

I'll take that trade.  I'm not much of a headphone guy.