street fighter 2 turbo remix with arcade stick

sigh...i'm really disappointed.

i thought especially with turbo buttons it'd be a lot easier to pull of special moves.. I got the hori fighting stick 3...the cheaper one that sells for around $45-50.

the buttons are fine...but it's the stick that seems too cheap.....too light.....too easy to move. It has a square gate, which i hear is Standard in japan...but it's just too hard for me to do quarter circles and half circles, etc... while i'm fighting against someone.

i'm worse at doing hadokens and tornado kicks, etc...with the arcade stick than with the dualshock.

is this becaues the arcade stick is cheaply made? will the arcade stick pro or the $150 street fighter madcatz stick feel any better?

Its the same. It took me awhile to get used to too. You should look into changing your stick or just practice.aznfool07

so the higher quality sticks aren't gonna help me eh? I see. thanks

Just give it some time and practice with it. After awhile, you'll get a feel for how far you need to move the stick before it engages the switches (you don't always need to move the stick all the way against the gate to register an input). You'll be able to pull a smooth movement for circular motions then, and only ride the gate when you need to hit diagonals or charging a direction.jt4mtb

just got the hori real arcade pro 3! it has a sanwa joystick, which i like better than the fight stick 3. the buttons on the HRAP 3 are heavier and not as light...so can't click as fast.... so I will upgrade to the sanwa buttons...

as for the restrictor gate:

if you get an octagon shaped restrictor gate..

can you tell me what axis the octagon "stands" on?

the small picture where it's standing on it's side...or the bigger picture where it's standing on one of its corners.

by the way, i can't see myself playing at some sweaty, dirty arcade. teenagers and weird middle aged men with raw-dogging hands come to mind :X

just got the hori real arcade pro 3! it has a sanwa joystick, which i like better than the fight stick 3. the buttons on the HRAP 3 are heavier and not as light...so can't click as fast.... so I will upgrade to the sanwa buttons...

as for the restrictor gate:

if you get an octagon shaped restrictor gate..

can you tell me what axis the octagon "stands" on?

the small picture where it's standing on it's side...or the bigger picture where it's standing on one of its corners.

by the way, i can't see myself playing at some sweaty, dirty arcade. teenagers and weird middle aged men with raw-dogging hands come to mind :X hyogen

With an octagon gate, you'll have a corner at each of the four primary directions (left/right/up/down) and also on the diagonals. So it'd be basically like the bigger picture there I guess. As far as the microswitches' positions, they still stay at the primary left/right/up/down directions.

[QUOTE="hyogen"]

just got the hori real arcade pro 3! it has a sanwa joystick, which i like better than the fight stick 3. the buttons on the HRAP 3 are heavier and not as light...so can't click as fast.... so I will upgrade to the sanwa buttons...

as for the restrictor gate:

if you get an octagon shaped restrictor gate..

can you tell me what axis the octagon "stands" on?

the small picture where it's standing on it's side...or the bigger picture where it's standing on one of its corners.

by the way, i can't see myself playing at some sweaty, dirty arcade. teenagers and weird middle aged men with raw-dogging hands come to mind :X jt4mtb

With an octagon gate, you'll have a corner at each of the four primary directions (left/right/up/down) and also on the diagonals. So it'd be basically like the bigger picture there I guess. As far as the microswitches' positions, they still stay at the primary left/right/up/down directions.

thank you! i'm not sure what you mean about microswitches positions... i'm planning on switching out just the buttons and restrictor plates on my new HRAP3...but have never done anything like it before. hyogen

Microswitches are a big part of what makes sticks and buttons work. They look like this typically:

Basically anytime you move the stick/press a button, it presses that little red tab on the top in; that connects the electronic circuit and tells the controller's circuit board (and ultimately your console) that you just pressed that button. Arcade sticks typically have 4 microswitches in them, one for each of the primary directions. Anytime you move the stick toward a diagonal, you're actually pressing in two microswitches (holding down-back to block, you're activating a switch for the down position and one for the back position at the same time). You'll see what I mean when you go to open it up and swap out parts. Actually now that I think about it, you should definitely know what to expect as I'm guessing the wires going to the buttons are going to be soldered to the microswitches. So you may need to do some desoldering and resoldering if you're swapping out buttons.

preciate it man..

i think on the hori real arcade pro 3 they made it easy to swap out buttons...a matter of snapping in and out i've heard...hopefully no soldering involved. ..

preciate it man..

i think on the hori real arcade pro 3 they made it easy to swap out buttons...a matter of snapping in and out i've heard...hopefully no soldering involved. ..

hyogen

Just to satisfy my own curiousity, I did a search on the internals of the HRAP3. Meet the part of the internals of your stick:

By the looks of it, the wiring for the buttons is all using quick disconnects. They're great as far as ease of maintenance since they just slide on and off of the microswitches' tabs (albeit a bit more than a snug fit). So when you go to change buttons, you'll just need to pull the disconnects off the tabs of the switches, pop out the old button (just press in the two tabs on the underside), pop in the new buttons, and push the disconnects onto the microswitch tabs of the new button. Lucky you. Just make a note on which pairs of wires go to which buttons so you don't screw up the button layout, or just change them one at a time to be safe.

wowow, thank you :D

i probably will get an octagonal restrictor plate. how do you get those rivets on top off? hmm.... maybe pry using a flathead?

wowow, thank you :D

i probably will get an octagonal restrictor plate. how do you get those rivets on top off? hmm.... maybe pry using a flathead?

This should help you http://forums.shoryuken.com/showthread.php?t=132472 Its a modding tutorial for hrap2 which is the same thing as hrap3 aside from the cord.Dirty3rdTex

hey guys...i'm having trouble with the dragon punch - Forward, Down, Downforward.....

i keep doing a hadoken... i have the square restrictor plate on my HRAP3.....

do you think a circular or octagonal one will help me? Thanks!

hey guys...i'm having trouble with the dragon punch - Forward, Down, Downforward.....

i keep doing a hadoken... i have the square restrictor plate on my HRAP3.....

do you think a circular or octagonal one will help me? Thanks!

hyogen

wow thanks. everyone here is more helpful than the cheapassgamer board!

http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/restrictors.html

this is really cool - got it from cag forum.

I'm interested in picking up an octagonal for the HRAP3 but I hear there's some issues with fitting it to the board. Anyone have any experience with that?emitsu97

woooooooooot

got streetfighter.

did anyone hear about issues with octagonal gate with hrap3?