With the introduction of the R18+ classification for computer games at the beginning of this year, we're ready for the sale of new games targeted at adult audiences in Australia. One question has been what this means for old games that were not released under the old classification scheme.

The message from the government is that the new classification scheme only applies to new games and old games won't automatically be allowed into the country, which appears to be mostly true. Looking at this more closely, there are two categories at play here:

• Games that were submitted to the Australian Classification Board and received a Refused Classification (RC) rating, or received such a rating on review. Well known examples include Manhunt, Marc Ecko's Getting Up and the recent Mortal Kombat.
• Games that have never been submitted for classification. Some examples include Manhunt 2 (I suppose they didn't think it was worth trying), and Telltale's The Walking Dead series.

For most states, these two categories are essentially the same in the eyes of the law. For instance, the NSW Classification Enforcement Act says in section 27:

A person must not sell or publicly demonstrate:
(a)a computer game classified RC, or
(b)an unclassified computer game.NSW Classification Enforcement Act

So the NSW law treats the two categories the same. Western Australia is often seen as a bit more strict since it also criminalises possession of RC material rather than just sale. I was a bit surprised to note that it actually seems a bit more lenient with respect to unclassified material though.

While there is a similar requirement that games must be classified if they are to be sold or demonstrated in a public place (section 82), it might not extend to private sales. Once you're out of a public place, you'd still be bound by section 84 of the WA Classification Enforcement Act:

(1) A person must not sell or demonstrate -
(a) an unclassified computer game that would, if classified, be classified RC; or
(b) a computer game classified RC.
Penalty: $15000 or imprisonment for 18 months.WA Classification Enforcement Act

So it isn't enough for the game to be unclassified to fall foul of this section: it only triggers if the content needs to be extreme enough to warrant an RC classification. And that would be determined according to the current classification guidelines.

The same language is used in section 89, which deals with the possession of RC games.

Imports

So, it is not necessarily illegal to possess an unclassified game in WA. But to possess one you will probably need to import it. And imports are subject to the federal customs regulations rather than state classification enforcement laws (the same as for all other states).

Such imports are potentially covered under the "Pornography and other objectionable material" class of prohibited and restricted imports. The guidelines on what is determined to be objectionable are described as "consistent with the RC criteria in the National Classification Code and the Classification (Publications, Films and Computer Games) Act 1995", although you can read the full details here. It is interesting to note that they reference the act rather than particular decisions made by the classification board, so you may be able to argue that all imports should be judged against the new guidelines.

Is it worth it?

So while it may be legal to import/use some of these old games, is it really worth pursuing this if Customs intercepts your shipment? You should probably talk to a lawyer if you really care. I suspect that they would tell you that it isn't worth it, since giving up and letting them destroy your package will probably result in no fine, while if you contest it they might push for maximum penalties if you lose.

Recently I managed to break one of the triggers in a PS3 controller such that it wouldn't spring back properly after pressing it. Rather than throwing it out or sending it in to get repaired, I had a go at fixing it myself. The repair wasn't too difficult, so I'll summarise the steps here in case they help anyone else.

I got the information on disassembling the controller and ideas for replacement parts from various sources on the Internet, so this isn't new information. Hopefully it will be helpful having it all together for others who run into this problem though.

1. Unscrew the 5 screws on the bottom of the controller.
2. You will notice that the two halves of the shell don't come apart yet. This is because there is a clip located between the two analogue sticks. If you press the bottom half of the shell between the two sticks, the halves should separate. I suggest doing this with the controller upside down so that the insides stay in place.
3. While the trigger/shoulder button assemblies feel like they can come loose, don't try to remove them: there is a ribbon cable attaching them to the main board. This repair should be possible without removing the trigger assembly, so leave them in place.
4. There is another piece of the shell that sits between the shoulder button and trigger. Remove it on the side of the broken trigger.
5. The trigger is held in place by a metal axle. Using a thin screwdriver, push the axle and slide it out. This should allow you to remove the trigger and the remains of the trigger spring.

At this point, you'll need a replacement trigger spring. One suggestion I found was to use the shutter spring from a 3½" floppy disk. I had a few lying around, so this is what I used. It is pretty easy to snap the two sides of the case apart and remove the spring. Now on to the reassembly:

1. The arms on the floppy shutter spring are longer than those on the original spring, so you will need to cut them to size with a wire cutter. You're probably better off making them slightly too long rather than too short.
2. Position the spring in the trigger and push the axle through the hole on the side of the trigger, just far enough so it goes through the centre of the spring.
3. Now comes the tricky bit. Position the trigger in the trigger assembly and push the axle the rest of the way through to attach the trigger. The tricky part is making sure the spring stays in place while you do this, and may take several tries.
4. Reattach the piece of the shell that goes between the shoulder button and trigger.
5. Check to make sure the shoulder button and trigger feel right when pressing them.
6. Slide the bottom half of the shell back on to the controller. There are some grooves next to the triggers you'll need to guide it over, and then push it together until the clip between the sticks clicks into place.
7. Replace the 5 screws, and then test the controller in a game to make sure all the buttons work.

After the repair, the controller felt as good as new. The tension on the repaired trigger felt slightly stronger than the other one, but not enough to feel weird. If that kind of thing bothers you, you might want to replace both springs at the same time.

I also noticed that the battery was not soldered onto the main board, but rather attached by a connector. This means that it should be fairly trivial to replace when it dies (assuming that I can find someone who sells replacements).

My PS3 trophy summary, in case anyone is interested.