Yesterday I had this exchange in an on-line forum.
Rachel: Dinner...Hopefully soup.
Me: Really, this early in the fall?
Rachel: What is with people and assigning food to seasons? I have soup year round. And it was canned soup.
I have been known to crank open a can of clam chowder any time of year if I'm eating alone and don't feel like bothering. But I'm never "hopeful" about it. And I think, despite her question about seasons, that Rachel understood that I thought she meant homemade soup. That is something to hope for.
People don't "assign foods to seasons"; the rhythms of nature assign foods to seasons. At least before Mr. Birdseye, Mr. Campbell and Chiquita's refrigerated railcars started blurring the natural food seasons.
This morning I went down to the farmers' market. The last of the locally grown sweet corn was looking shabby, but the tomatoes looked great, and there were lots of shell beans and zucchini. Fifty years ago my grandmother would have started canning her tomatoes and beans. The "winter" squash are just beginning to show up. Butternut, Acorn and their ilk have thick skins that allow them to keep over the winter down in the root cellar. The potatoes, parsnips, turnips and rutabagas would also keep over the winter under a bed of straw out in the barn.
Lentils and green peas can be dried now and then reconstituted when fresh are no longer available. It's time to can the peaches as this year's crop dwindles and later the late season Winesap and York apples can go down to the root cellar.
When it gets cold enough, game can be hunted and livestock slaughtered. We eat turkey at Thanksgiving, roast beef and goose at Christmas and lamb at Passover/Easter because that's when they are available, or were before Mr. Swift. People didn't assign those foods to those seasons, the natural order did.
Sure, a bowl of hot soup is great on a cold day, but that not why it's a winter food. Soup is a "winter food" because that's when you have the makings – and not much else to eat. There are bones, root vegetables and dried herbs for stock to make it flavorful and dried legumes, rice and wheat preserved as pasta to make it filling, fresh meat and preserved vegetables to add nutrition.
Asparagus and strawberries that have actual flavor are spring foods. Corn-on-the-cob isn't worth eating if it wasn't grown down the road and picked yesterday. That only happens for two months in the late summer.
Last winter I made a batch of ham stock. I used some of it to make a lentil and sausage soup. I froze the rest. I could probably use it now to make a fabulous soup of fresh vegetables. But, that's not what fresh vegetables are for; they are for eating and enjoying as they are. The stock will come out after the first frost and after I have put up the remaining green tomatoes as relish. That's when it will be time for winter foods. Nature tells me that.
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