Since I've started working on 360s, I've learned a good deal about how they work and how to repair them. The most common problem on the 360 is the three red lights, RROD, and it is caused by heat disconnecting the motherboard from the CPU or GPU. The fat PS3s have a similar problem that is indicated by a yellow light followed by a flashing red light and 3 beeps, or YLOD. This is a short guide to explain some insider tips on how to deal with a 360 experiencing this problem.
The 360s problems all stem from the use of lead-free solder. Lead free solder has a lower melting point that normal lead based solder, but it is used in the 360 and many other devices because of US Government regulation on lead content in electronics. The 360's processor and graphics processor are both connected to the board by an array of small lead-free solder balls, the BGA. What happens is that as the system gets hot, these solder balls can melt and cross paths. When that happens, you get a Red Ring or an E74.
There are two fixes once you have that problem. The first is called a reflow and is simple and only requires a very small investment and about an hour of your time.
For info visit:
or on youtube:
http://www.youtube.com/user/FixYourOwnXbox
You don't have to buy their kit, but if you're just doing one xbox it is worth the money. Otherwise here is a list of what you'll need:
1x T9 screwdriver
1x Philips Screwdrive
8x Size 10 machine screws
16x (maybe more depending on thickness) small nylon or rubber washers (size 10, like .4-.5 in diameter)
1x Themal Paste
1x liquid flux and pipette (optional)
If you follow the videos it should be pretty easy. Essential what you're doing is opening the xbox, removing the motherboard, removing the heat-syncs, cleaning off old themal paste, fluxing the processors (optional), re-attaching the heat-syncs, overheating the xbox, then putting it all back together. That is a reflow.
However, even if that is all done perfectly it is likely your red ring will return. Sometimes it comes back in a day, sometimes it takes 3 months, the reason it comes back is because that problems lead-free solder is still there. The real solution is a reball.
Reballing an Xbox 360 will take a bit more of an investment that just a reflow. While its possible to reball a system with little more than a heat gun, a soldering iron, and a steady hand, it isn't something I'd recommend. What a reball is, is removing the CPU and GPU from the board and cleaning off the troublesome lead-free solder and replacing it with normal leaded solder. You'll need solder balls (or paste), solder wick, soldering iron, sticky flux, BGA stencils, and it helps to have a professional reflow station. It also helps to have some practice because the BGA has to be exactly right or it wont work.
I'm not going to put up any more information on reballing. However, if you're going to pay someone to fix your xbox make sure that is what they're doing. If you want to get into it yourself, you can often find reflow stations used on ebay for cheap. Also, you can buy supplies at DinoDirect.com.
Finally, I'd like to recommend one additional product. The new Intercooler does a much better job at preventing a RROD. It has its own power supply so it will continue to cool down the system even after you turn in off. That prevents the repeated slow cooldown that normally wears down the solder. It isn't a must buy, but unlike the old intercoolers, the new ones actually do what they're supposed to.