Well, I figured out what was wrong with my PC!!

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gregbmil

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#1 gregbmil
Member since 2004 • 2703 Posts

I don't know if you remember me from a few days ago. I had a topic about my PC not turning on. It just shut off one day, so I bought a (good) PSU this time but still nothing. I bought a new Mobo/CPU combo, but still nothing. The last thing to get was new RAM, so I went and got 4GB, but still nothing.

Guess what is was? My GPU went bad:evil: I connected everything and my PC was doing nothing (the fans would move very slightly, like a twich). So just for the hell of it I pulled out myGPU (The only thing I did't cheap out on in the first place) and it started right up, no problems. It was a Geforce 8800GS, I got it about a year and a half ago and it's been sitting for nearly a year.

I never knew a bad GPU would cause it to just not respond at all to power. Lol, at least my PC got upgraded alittle bit from a Pentium D 3GB to a Core 2 Duo E7500 and 2GB of RAM to 4GB. All I need now it a new GPU, which I needed in the first place (it just took me $275 to figure it out)

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wurd

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#2 wurd
Member since 2003 • 634 Posts
and you bought all that??? why didnt you remove the gpu in the first place and turn the mobo on??
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gregbmil

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#3 gregbmil
Member since 2004 • 2703 Posts

and you bought all that??? why didnt you remove the gpu in the first place and turn the mobo on??wurd
I thought for sure it was the PSU in the first place because I bought the cheapest 500W I could find. Also I got the cheapest 2GB of RAM I could find

Plus, I really don't know a whole lot about PC's in the first place. Alittle, but not like alot of you guys. I wanted a new CPU anyways, plus my Mobo was maxed out at 2 GB's already. My new one can go to 8 and I have 4 in it now

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viper0982

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#4 viper0982
Member since 2007 • 555 Posts
i love it when my old stuff breaks so I have an excuse to buy new
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Rusteater

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#5 Rusteater
Member since 2004 • 4080 Posts

I never knew a bad GPU would cause it to just not respond at all to power.

gregbmil

I have seen a bad DVD drive do the same.

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wurd

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#6 wurd
Member since 2003 • 634 Posts
..and people always mislead users on this board by nearly always saying "That's definately your PSU!!!" In 20 years of bulding and maintaining computers i've only known 2 psu to fail, they're definately the most reliable part in the computer.
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gregbmil

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#7 gregbmil
Member since 2004 • 2703 Posts

..and people always mislead users on this board by nearly always saying "That's definately your PSU!!!" In 20 years of bulding and maintaining computers i've only known 2 psu to fail, they're definately the most reliable part in the computer.wurd

So I guess my $35 PSU was fine. Lol, now I can almost build another PC with the stuff I have laying around (just need a case and HHD).

I do have one problem with my new stuff though, my case fan is always running at full speed and it is really loud. Anyone know what could cause that?

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wurd

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#8 wurd
Member since 2003 • 634 Posts
in bios you should have an option to stick it on auto or slow it down. if not theres free system monitor software out there that does it. or get some wd40 :)
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Bikouchu35

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#9 Bikouchu35
Member since 2009 • 8344 Posts

Wow, yeah I remember the topic I think you mentioned that you were trying to get it run again for months. I was wondering the end to that story, good to know time for a new card!

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gregbmil

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#10 gregbmil
Member since 2004 • 2703 Posts

in bios you should have an option to stick it on auto or slow it down. if not theres free system monitor software out there that does it. or get some wd40 :)wurd

This may sound dumb, but how do I get into bios? Usually, on all PC's I've seen you push, I think F12 or F2 to get to it during start up. But with this new one I put together it don't give me the option. I just see a screen with pretty much a picture of the box my Mobo came in then Windows starts right up and that's it. I don't get that screen anymore that says "push F2 for set up"

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osan0

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#11 osan0
Member since 2004 • 18275 Posts
i did the same thing (although i havent tested a different graphics card on it..its the only core component i havent replaced...so im guessing thats the problem). in my case i would turn on the PC and everything would whir away...but nothing would happen most of the time. the reason i didnt suspect the GPU was because on the very rare occasion that my PC did something, i would see the boot picture for my mobo (this is pre OS loading) so i thought the GPU was fine and it was something else that was causing the problem. but i have bought a new CPU, powersupply, mobo and ram and the symptoms remain the same. if its not the GPU then my case is cursed or something (ive removed extras such as wireless cards, HDDs and disc drives..so its not those). the PC can be a crewel mistress :P. still when i do get my new PC working...my sig shall eb changed and my PC shall be named....mittens.
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gregbmil

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#12 gregbmil
Member since 2004 • 2703 Posts

i did the same thing (although i havent tested a different graphics card on it..its the only core component i havent replaced...so im guessing thats the problem). in my case i would turn on the PC and everything would whir away...but nothing would happen most of the time. the reason i didnt suspect the GPU was because on the very rare occasion that my PC did something, i would see the boot picture for my mobo (this is pre OS loading) so i thought the GPU was fine and it was something else that was causing the problem. but i have bought a new CPU, powersupply, mobo and ram and the symptoms remain the same. if its not the GPU then my case is cursed or something (ive removed extras such as wireless cards, HDDs and disc drives..so its not those). the PC can be a crewel mistress :P. still when i do get my new PC working...my sig shall eb changed and my PC shall be named....mittens.osan0

After I replaced the Mobo, the CPU, and Ram I was all out of options. It was still doing the same thing so I just tried removing my GPU and connected my monitor to the on board graphics and everything worked fine, it's actually pretty fast now.

Now I just need to figure out how to slow down the fan connected to my case. It's full blast all the time and I can't seem to access the bios.

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viper0982

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#13 viper0982
Member since 2007 • 555 Posts
i didn't see someone answer you but usually you press the delete key to enter bios
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Philoshperstone

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#14 Philoshperstone
Member since 2010 • 96 Posts
Party time?
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#15 Sparticus247
Member since 2005 • 2368 Posts

[QUOTE="wurd"]in bios you should have an option to stick it on auto or slow it down. if not theres free system monitor software out there that does it. or get some wd40 :)gregbmil

This may sound dumb, but how do I get into bios? Usually, on all PC's I've seen you push, I think F12 or F2 to get to it during start up. But with this new one I put together it don't give me the option. I just see a screen with pretty much a picture of the box my Mobo came in then Windows starts right up and that's it. I don't get that screen anymore that says "push F2 for set up"

Depends on what BIOS you have, be it award, pheonix, etc. Try pushing the Delete key and see if that works. Can always use a program like CPU-ID to see what kind you have.

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die3

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#16 die3
Member since 2004 • 297 Posts

..and people always mislead users on this board by nearly always saying "That's definately your PSU!!!" In 20 years of bulding and maintaining computers i've only known 2 psu to fail, they're definately the most reliable part in the computer.wurd

Guess I'm just plain unlucky ;D

I've a PC of about a year old (bit more), and recently it broke down. Apparently it was the disc drive that broke down, and it took the PSU with it (and it weren't some cheap pieces, it was a PSU of 1000 watt (when I look back on it I only really needed 650 watt) and the dvd drive was from samsung if i'm not mistaking).

Anyways, garantee was still up, so I almost hadn't have to pay anything =)

greetz!

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osan0

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#17 osan0
Member since 2004 • 18275 Posts

[QUOTE="osan0"]i did the same thing (although i havent tested a different graphics card on it..its the only core component i havent replaced...so im guessing thats the problem). in my case i would turn on the PC and everything would whir away...but nothing would happen most of the time. the reason i didnt suspect the GPU was because on the very rare occasion that my PC did something, i would see the boot picture for my mobo (this is pre OS loading) so i thought the GPU was fine and it was something else that was causing the problem. but i have bought a new CPU, powersupply, mobo and ram and the symptoms remain the same. if its not the GPU then my case is cursed or something (ive removed extras such as wireless cards, HDDs and disc drives..so its not those). the PC can be a crewel mistress :P. still when i do get my new PC working...my sig shall eb changed and my PC shall be named....mittens.gregbmil

After I replaced the Mobo, the CPU, and Ram I was all out of options. It was still doing the same thing so I just tried removing my GPU and connected my monitor to the on board graphics and everything worked fine, it's actually pretty fast now.

Now I just need to figure out how to slow down the fan connected to my case. It's full blast all the time and I can't seem to access the bios.

unfortunately the "pc wont boot and doesnt output any error message" problem is a pot luck problem. all you can really deduce is that its a hardware fault or a problem with the way you have connected everything up. in my case i knew it wasnt a build problem as the PC did work for 3 years rock solid. after that its about replacing bits until it works again and trying to make educated guesses (though in my case educated guesses didnt solve the problem :( ). in hindsight, this is one of those situations where i would have been better off just handing it into a PC store and get them to find the problem. it would have cost alot less and it would have been faster. i didnt have the necessary spare hardware or a doner PC where i could just swap stuff in and out until it worked. lesson learned, drawing a line, moving on :). as for your fans....if the bios doesnt have the necessary options to conrol your fans, you can get fan controllers that allow you to change the fna speed by just turning a nob. some also make adjustments automatically based on the temp reading from your mobo.
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organic_machine

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#18 organic_machine
Member since 2004 • 10143 Posts

Well now that your computer just got more awesome, what GPU are you going to get?!

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swehunt

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#19 swehunt
Member since 2008 • 3637 Posts
..and people always mislead users on this board by nearly always saying "That's definately your PSU!!!" In 20 years of bulding and maintaining computers i've only known 2 psu to fail, they're definately the most reliable part in the computer.wurd
Well, iv'e seen, working with and repaired my fair share of computers under many years and I have to disagree with you. ;) The diffrence 2010 from the 2000 is mainly that PSU makers lie on the stickers now witch they didn't before, this makes people buy lowcost 600-700w psu's witch are more prown to fail than a simular prized 400w psu is. I'd take a 40$ 400w over a 40$ 650w PSU any day since it often has better components and the PSU maker didn't lie about the juice it has. Then we have ripple and unstable rails, and who would like to use a PSU with no saftey circiuts? -But people are more concerned about prize than the reliability. High ripple will shorten the lifespawn of most electronics and could damage most PC's over a longer time so even if the PSU work and deliver the power that are needed it can damage your components if it deliver bad quality power. The wattage madness is worse than ever, most PC's do not use more power than a good 450w PSU will handle without a doubt, but people thinks the more wattage the better and buy the cheapest 700wattage PSU they can find with bad results.
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osan0

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#20 osan0
Member since 2004 • 18275 Posts

Well now that your computer just got more awesome, what GPU are you going to get?!

organic_machine
Me? if itll fit in my case then either a 5870 or 5850. the 8800GTX barely fits into my nzxt zero crafted series case. i think fermi will be awsome..but will also be out of my price range. however i wont be buying anything until nvidia make their move....i wanna see how it all pans out before i make a call on it.
[QUOTE="wurd"]..and people always mislead users on this board by nearly always saying "That's definately your PSU!!!" In 20 years of bulding and maintaining computers i've only known 2 psu to fail, they're definately the most reliable part in the computer.swehunt
Well, iv'e seen, working with and repaired my fair share of computers under many years and I have to disagree with you. ;) The diffrence 2010 from the 2000 is mainly that PSU makers lie on the stickers now witch they didn't before, this makes people buy lowcost 600-700w psu's witch are more prown to fail than a simular prized 400w psu is. I'd take a 40$ 400w over a 40$ 650w PSU any day since it often has better components and the PSU maker didn't lie about the juice it has. Then we have ripple and unstable rails, and who would like to use a PSU with no saftey circiuts? -But people are more concerned about prize than the reliability. High ripple will shorten the lifespawn of most electronics and could damage most PC's over a longer time so even if the PSU work and deliver the power that are needed it can damage your components if it deliver bad quality power. The wattage madness is worse than ever, most PC's do not use more power than a good 450w PSU will handle without a doubt, but people thinks the more wattage the better and buy the cheapest 700wattage PSU they can find with bad results.

i read a mag called custom PC every month and they do a really thourough test on power supplies. as you probably already know, an atx power supply has to meet certain sepcifications in terms of the voltages and watts it should deliver to each component. im not sure on the exact details but as far as i know anyone can read the atx spec document. this mag is really thourough...they test at various loads and they test under the assumption that the PSUs that say they are atx compliant (which is all of em) are actually atx compliant. so they draw out the proper voltage etc. in the first year they ran this test....nearly all of the PSUs failed. quite a few also blew up. they were also hugely inefficent. even at just 50-60% load. thankffully the situation has improved immensly but the message from this mag is clear. dont skimp on the power supply and make sure you buy from a good manufacturer. no brand PSUs are a death sentence for anything but the most basic of PCs.
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swehunt

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#21 swehunt
Member since 2008 • 3637 Posts

[QUOTE="swehunt"][QUOTE="wurd"]..and people always mislead users on this board by nearly always saying "That's definately your PSU!!!" In 20 years of bulding and maintaining computers i've only known 2 psu to fail, they're definately the most reliable part in the computer.osan0
Well, iv'e seen, working with and repaired my fair share of computers under many years and I have to disagree with you. ;) The diffrence 2010 from the 2000 is mainly that PSU makers lie on the stickers now witch they didn't before, this makes people buy lowcost 600-700w psu's witch are more prown to fail than a simular prized 400w psu is. I'd take a 40$ 400w over a 40$ 650w PSU any day since it often has better components and the PSU maker didn't lie about the juice it has. Then we have ripple and unstable rails, and who would like to use a PSU with no saftey circiuts? -But people are more concerned about prize than the reliability. High ripple will shorten the lifespawn of most electronics and could damage most PC's over a longer time so even if the PSU work and deliver the power that are needed it can damage your components if it deliver bad quality power. The wattage madness is worse than ever, most PC's do not use more power than a good 450w PSU will handle without a doubt, but people thinks the more wattage the better and buy the cheapest 700wattage PSU they can find with bad results.

i read a mag called custom PC every month and they do a really thourough test on power supplies. as you probably already know, an atx power supply has to meet certain sepcifications in terms of the voltages and watts it should deliver to each component. im not sure on the exact details but as far as i know anyone can read the atx spec document. this mag is really thourough...they test at various loads and they test under the assumption that the PSUs that say they are atx compliant (which is all of em) are actually atx compliant. so they draw out the proper voltage etc. in the first year they ran this test....nearly all of the PSUs failed. quite a few also blew up. they were also hugely inefficent. even at just 50-60% load. thankffully the situation has improved immensly but the message from this mag is clear. dont skimp on the power supply and make sure you buy from a good manufacturer. no brand PSUs are a death sentence for anything but the most basic of PCs.

Well, the ATX standard has changed over the years and efficient ratio at 80% are more like a norm today than it was for a cuple years ago but the efficiency don't acually tell anything about how clean or good the power from the PSU is, but the higher efficiency and less heat goes hand in hand, high efficiency does save on the electrical bill and in the long run some $ can be saved. For an exsample, my Corsair vx550 has an efficiency at ~86%/300w (220volt) load it'll take 342w from the outlet, a bad quality 800w psu with 65% @ 300w will take 405w while giving the same amount of power to your PC, it's the matter of 63w in terms of the electrical bill and most likely 63w of heat into your PC witch may cause a few degrees celcius higher ambient temp in your Case.

At only 63w diffrence it'll take a while to save the extra cost for the highclass PSU over the lowcost one but while you do you'll have good clean power and often a good extended waranty if something do happen. (witch is less usual when you use a good brand/good quality)

One of the most important things in a PC is the PSU but many people belive that the amount of maximum peak output (witch is totaly diffrent to the maximumcontinous output you'll find on good quality brands) is what sets the standard and not how good it is, i'd like to call it hysteria that people buy lowcost PSU's instead of getting a good investment at just a few $ more.