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Bozanimal

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#1 Bozanimal
Member since 2003 • 2500 Posts

-All of the above
-I'm actually looking for single din now... No touch or LCD display but if it has multiple color LED's that would be cool!
-Don't need nav, too pricey, better off getting a garmin when the time comes
-I don't have steering wheel controls. I think they might be a little unnecessary but if you can find me an awesome deal by all means share :P
-I don't want to cheap out on a single din... Anywhere from $100 - $300 would be ideal, looking for the most value per dollar!

I was told Component are the way to go over Coax... I would like to know your opinion there. I foresee myself adding an amp so I want speakers that will sound significantly better than stock w.o the amp but will sound even more significantly better when I add the amp... Subwoofers may also be added in the future. If you have any amp recommendations or kit recommendations I would also appreciate it. I'm more so just focused on figuring out the single din and speakers I want first, as well as the best price for a dash kit...

I've heard great things about crutchfield. I am entering an electical program so even though I know diddly squat ATM, installing it myself isn't out of the question. It would be nice to save some money on install. However, there is still a good chance I'll have a shop in town do it...

Question: If I install a single din, and later sell it to get a double din with nav, will it fit the same kit?

Thanks for the response, appreciate it!mjk_1


Component speakers sound better than coaxial speakers because they use a separate crossover, and allow you to mount the tweeter separately. Speaker positioning is often more important than speaker quality, and a separate tweeter can be mounted in a lot of locations that a coaxial cannot since it's stuck in the center of the woofer. I cannot say how important it is if you are buying separates to make sure they have a quality crossover. Generally size is a decent indicator of whether they're using quality components, but not always.

You can install a head unit yourself if you can solder wires and feel comfortable using a heat gun and heat-shrink tube. I'd trust my wife to install a head unit. I'd take about an hour to get it done right, she could probably do it in three without any help from me in most vehicles with a kit from Crutchfield and their guides. I strongly encourage you to buy your head unit from them: The intelligence, service, and support are worth the price of admission, and you'll save a lot of money not having a store install it if you've got the time.

You'll also learn something, which counts for a lot, too.

What do you think of these? I am unable to tell if that price is for 1 or a pair...

mjk_1


All car audio speakers are sold in pairs, so this would be the price of two 6.5" woofers, two tweeters, and two crossovers, plus mounthing hardware for the tweeter and possibly some wiring, though unlikely. Like I said, MB Quart and Focal make excellent speakers, and I'm sure that component set you linked is great.

Your issue is that you want a pair of speakers that sound good off a deck and great off an amplifier, which is a challenge. In general, metal dome tweeters sound good under lower power because they're more efficient than soft dome tweeters, but under higher-power can be harsh. Silk-dome tweeters are generally ideal, but need an excellent crossover and amplifier to sound their best. Cheap tweeters use Mylar. Then again, B&W often uses aluminum tweeters, so you never can tell, really.

Also, I have no experience with that particular retailer. For car audio in the past I've used:

Sonic Electronix (Speakers, Dynamat)
Onlinecarstereo (Speakers, Dynamat)
Crutchfield (Head Units)
Parts Express (wiring)
Woofers Etc. (Speakers)

This doesn't mean there is anything wrong with HiFi Sound Connection, I've just never used them personally. They seem to have good reviews, I just get nervous when I see those kinds of low prices.

So, what products would I personally recommend? You want me to get to the good stuff, right? Alright then.

HEAD UNITS
I recommend the Kenwood Excelon KDC-X796. Kenwood is a reputable brand, their Excelon series is their "high-end," it is an extremely good value, and does everything that you want that matters. It has built-in Bluetooth and HD Radio (the latter of which is nicer than you might think), supports both a USB input and AUX (3.5mm) input on the front panel - giving you tons of connectivity options - and has three 4 Volt preamp outputs, which is important if you are planning to add an amplifier(s) later. A higher output voltage helps overcome external noise, and gives your amplifier more head room. It also has a two-year warranty (one-year is most common), and it's only $220: How sweet is that?

If you want to save $70, the JVC Arsenal KD-A735BT lacks HD Radio, and the included Bluetooth adapter is external. The Bluetooth adapter plugs into the USB port on the rear of the unit when you install it. You may, in fact, prefer this setup. I use a JVC Arsenal receiver myself.

Alternatives include the Sony MEX-BT4000P and Alpine CDE-HD137BT, which do everything the Kenwood does, but have a lower 2 volt preamp output. Also, the Sony lacks the built-in HD Radio of the Kenwood, though this is not a priority for most people.

SPEAKERS
Speakers are the hard part given your criteria, and 6.5" component systems are the most crowded among the enthusiast market.

I'm going to be cautious here before I make a recommendation. What is your exact year, make, and model car, and does it have a trunk or not? Some speakers that are the right diameter will be too deep for your door, which can impede window movement (and I've had it happen). So let's just make sure before I recommend something it's going to absolutely, definitely fit.

Happy gaming,

Boz
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Bozanimal

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#2 Bozanimal
Member since 2003 • 2500 Posts
There are many excellent headphones you could buy, but what you'll want to get depends heavily on for what you will be using them (PC gaming, iPod listening, music, movies, or all of the above), how you will use them (at home, while traveling, etc.), and your budget. Read through the Headphone FAQ at the top of these forums, think a bit about what you're looking for, and come on back with questions. Happy gaming, Boz
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#3 Bozanimal
Member since 2003 • 2500 Posts
Wouldnt you want a open headphone for gaming?Wolfetan
That's a matter of personal preference. In this case, though, I don't think there's a decent open-back headphone in the $40 to $60 range that competes with the JVC HARX700. Happy gaming, Boz
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#4 Bozanimal
Member since 2003 • 2500 Posts
Wouldnt you want a open headphone for gaming?Wolfetan
That's a matter of personal preference. In this case, though, I don't think there's a decent open-back headphone in the $40 to $60 range that competes with the JVC HARX700. Happy gaming, Boz
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#5 Bozanimal
Member since 2003 • 2500 Posts

The JVC HARX700 is a great headphone and you can get a clip-on Zalman mic with it for $41.06 combined on Amazon (look under, "Frequently Bought Together").

Check out the Headphone FAQ for additional detail.

Happy gaming,

Boz

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#6 Bozanimal
Member since 2003 • 2500 Posts

Don't wanna hijack the thread but i have a couple of relevant questions (I'm planning on a surround setup sometime soonish)

What effect does gauge have on the wire, and how important is it? Does more expensive wire make a big difference?

How is the Denon AVR 1912? That's the reciever I've been planning on buying for £250.

kraken2109
Wire gauge is important, because you will lose power if the wire is too small for the combination or power and distance over which you are running the cable. This will have a direct impact on both sound quality and volume. Powerful enough and you could - potentially - even melt the cable and cause fire, though this is in most cases highly unlikely. More expensive wire is generally the result of branding and marketing, though in rare cases it is because the wire uses a particular material that is expensive. There is no reason to buy brand name products when it comes to audio cables with the possible exception of RCA interconnects, which you want to make sure you're using twisted loom - which is more effective at rejecting external electrical noise and interference - but otherwise brand still doesn't matter. Happy gaming, Boz
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#7 Bozanimal
Member since 2003 • 2500 Posts
I think he means he wants a sensitive headset, not headphones. Consider a Labtec LVA-7330 mic. You can strap that to whatever headphone you want, and you'll have a great boom mic and headphones you can use for whatever. Happy gaming, Boz
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#8 Bozanimal
Member since 2003 • 2500 Posts
Really? I thought Grado is generally regarded as one of the more uncomfortable headphones brands last time I checked. I own a pair and even I'm acknowledging that Grado sacrifices comfort for othe ther aspects of the headphone. Took me literally months of breaking in before they were comfortable enough to leave on for 1hr+.KHAndAnime
Maybe it's just because I have a giant head, but I found them to fit against my head nicely even with glasses. The three pair I tested were heavily broken-in, though, so it may have colored my perception, but I found it had very little clamping pressure and let my ears breathe. It just goes to show how everyone perceives comfort differently! Happy gaming, Boz
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#9 Bozanimal
Member since 2003 • 2500 Posts
  • When you say MP3 "data disc" player, are you looking for iPod support, USB support, a CD player that supports audio files, or all of the above?
  • Is a touch screen or LCD display important to you, or are you cool with a traditional display (huge impact on price here)?
  • Do you need navigation?
  • Do you need steering wheel controls?
  • Do you have a price range?

With this information I can probably make a few recommendations.

*Edit* Let's consolidate this thread and your speaker thread. You are building a car audio system, and those choices directly impact one another. I'm going to restrict all my responses to this thread.

Both MB Quart and Focal make excellent speakers - some would argue the best on the market for car audio - but if you're not going to use a separate amplifier you are probably wasting your money. In fact, I'd go so far as to say that separates are going to be a waste of money without a dedicated amplifier. They sound better - MUCH better - but they require more power than a head unit is capable of producing for a lot of reasons, not least of which is to get that juice through the crossover, but also because your head unit has a lot of things going on it needs to power besides just your speakers, and only so much bandwidth to use in terms of the power it receives from your factory wiring in which to do so.

If you're getting just a head unit a four speaker, buy a head unit that does what you want and a nice set of power-efficient, matching coaxials. It will still sound much better than the factory radio, and requires very little time and money to make it happen. If you want a system that bumps, you have to invest significantly more money and time for separate amplifiers, subs, and wiring.

While you might be able to get a better price from another site, I always buy my head units from Crutchfield because they include an installation kit in the cost of the head unit, instruction sheets for installation in your vehicle (and they're excellent instructions), lifetime support, and have excellent return policies.

Happy gaming,

Boz

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#10 Bozanimal
Member since 2003 • 2500 Posts

One last thing guys that I forgot to mention. Now, I don't want you to take this the wrong way, but have you two ever used "gaming" surround headphones?

I know the Audio Technica + Asus Xonar sounds amazing, but have you used the gaming ones to compare it to?

The thing that keeps driving me to the Turtle Beach are the 4 drivers on each ear with 3 x 3.5mm Surround Plugs, while the AT are just one plug...???

Thanks againFelipeInside

It's insulting that - after all of these users have gone through this effort to both educate you and offer suggestions - you would come back with this response.

facepalmpicardriker_2.jpg


Seriously.

Boz