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larry45

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#1 larry45
Member since 2004 • 345 Posts

Last 3:

Halo: ODST

GTA IV: TBoGT

Modern Warfare 2

Future 3:

Assassin's Creed 2

Bioshock 2

Splinter Cell: Conviction

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larry45

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#2 larry45
Member since 2004 • 345 Posts

Hey thanks everyone. So far I'm running the brightness at 50 and the contrast at 60. My only real complaint is that the TV is absolutely huge, like gigantically huge. A 42" in an 9x9 (give or take) square dorm room is a bit daunting. I don't have the thing mounted, at least not yet anyway, rather I have it on the plastic stand it came with and I have itsitting on top of my dresser. A 37" MAX probably would have been ideal but Samsung doesn't make a plasma that small I don't think.

Because the TV is so gigantic I can't help but think of the 1080 I don't have, but in thinking about that I just try and remember that very few games for the 360 are in 1080i or 1080p and that I might not even see the effects of 1080 being within such a close proximity to the television set.

Basically, as the pictures above clearly show, I have a lot of rearranging of furniture to do.

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larry45

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#3 larry45
Member since 2004 • 345 Posts

OK, so I decided on getting a Samsung 42" plasma and I'm just wondering if there's anything at all I should do to"break it in" orprevent initial burn-in.

I'm not a big fan of a supposed 100 hour break-in period of not playing games.

The guy in Sears said that he never did that for his plasma, nor did anyone he knows who bought plasmas.

Ideally I would just like to start playing ODST as soon as I get this and probably all night (12 hours +) but I wouldn't be opposed to turning down brightness/contrast levels slightly.

Basically I just don't want to do anything to mess up my plasma in the first days of use. Thanks dudes.

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larry45

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#4 larry45
Member since 2004 • 345 Posts

crazywayne287, wherever you are, i'm going plasma.

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#5 larry45
Member since 2004 • 345 Posts
[QUOTE="rastan"]With the recent Panasonic (50" 720p co-worker bought) and Samsung plasmas (Recent 50" 720p uncle bought), I have not noticed any real issues on initial setup. Ghosting was non-existant in during calibration where I left the test image up for a while. As long as you don't run the set at show-room level brightness and contrast I wouldn't worry too much about the break-in period. You should calibrate it anyways as soon as you get it to get the best picture any ways. Many salesmen used to definitely harp on about LCD as they cost more and hence make more money for their company, but I was surprised when I went with my uncle to get the Samsung at Sears that the salesman said that was th best deal in the store at the time. Both paid ~$800 for them and I would say the Panasonic has a slightly better picture, but the swivel on the Samsung was a good feature for my uncle. As for non-HDMI, it should not limit game quality. However, very few 360 games actually are native 1080p anyways (I believe the number is under 10). How far will you sit from the set? If you get a 1080p set, you will only be able to feed it native 1080p from the few games and from a Blu-Ray player if you got one. Everything else would be scaled to 1080p. VGA: HD DVD - 1080p resolution and all others DVD - Upscaled as high as 1080p resolution and all others Games - 720p games upscaled to 1080p, also supports native-1080p games in the future Component: HD DVD - 1080i resolution maximum, limited by AACS DVD - Upscaled to 480p maximum, limited by CSS Games - 720p games upscaled to 1080p, also supports native-1080p games in the future

Finally went to Sears today and this sweet Asian dude who worked there said that all the employees in electronics owned plasmas for gaming/sports viewing. He said that Sears actually gets a lot of LCDs and LED LCDs back for servicing or returning. He also said that burn in isn't really much of an issue anymore. When I asked him about a "break-in" period he said that he never really did that for his plasma and neither did anyone else he knew who purchased them - like they would go right home and start watching football games in max brightness or something. So, I set on a 42" Samsung plasma. In the store this set actually looked much brighter and sharper than a Panasonic of equal size and price. Tomorrow I think I'm going to go get it. Thanks to everyone for their help and advice. It's finally led me to choose.
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#6 larry45
Member since 2004 • 345 Posts
I really am leaning towards plasma - just because, let's face it, they have the superior picture. And I remember when I played on a 42 (give or take) Pioneer plasma at only 720p it was the most incredible picture ever. The only thing that worries me is burn in / ghosting. I know a lot have anti-burn in technology nowadays so it shouldn't be too much of a problem but I don't want to really have to constantly be checking for ghosting, worrying about it, trying to erase it, etc. I play a lot of Halo 3, which has the hud obviously - a static image, and I play games for hours on end so I don't know if this would be a problem. The last discouraging factor is that from my understanding there is a "breaking-in period" where static images shouldn't be displayed for the first one hundred hours and that the brightness or contrast levels should be kept at half. This seems more like an annoyance than anything because when I get this the first thing I'm going to want to do is, obviously, play ODST non-stop on it. If those two concerns could be extinguished I feel pretty confident that I would be unambiguously set on going with plasma. Although I would really hate if tomorrow when I get to Sears the salesman is dead set on LCD...after i'm feeling good about plasma. ---------------- Finally, I just want to say that I've always had trouble discerning an actual, beneficial difference between 720 and 1080. Just the other week, for the first time in years, and on a gigantic DLP I think I may finally have noticed a less-graininess to the picture when setting the picture to 1080. (Still, I'm not sure because I'm pretty sure I didn't do anything to the actual TV settings, just the 360. Maybe I didn't even do it right). And on one last note my 360 doesn't have HDMI and I'm just wondering if that will hinder maximum picture quality considering the plasma I might purchase is only 720p.
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#7 larry45
Member since 2004 • 345 Posts

If you can extend your budget by $30, I'd get this

$829, tax free and free shipping.

This'd be awesome -high-def plasma with excellent contrast and 600Hz to control motion blur (which is good for gaming)... I have a 42" currently, but really wish I had gone for the 50 in retrospect- and plan on upgrading to a 50 soon... this one is a really good deal considering the size and technology.

Scoob64
Hmm yeah that's definitely not bad for that size but I'm mostly going to be keeping this in a dorm room so I don't know if that'd be too big.
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larry45

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#8 larry45
Member since 2004 • 345 Posts

TC (larry),

Maybe you should buy online instead of from Sears?

Heres a Panny plasma 42" 720p

and here is an LG plasma 42" 720p - both new, under $650 - tax free, free shipping, and the website is CNET verified.

Scoob64
Hmm very interesting indeed. Now what about an LCD from them? Basically I'm still trying to decided between plasma and LCD but I'm guessing since you posted plasma links that you're probably advocating plasma.
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#9 larry45
Member since 2004 • 345 Posts

[QUOTE="larry45"]

I was never under the impression that Samsung is superior to LG. I thought they were on the same page.

Scoob64

according to CNET, LG makes an absolutely amazing LED LCD.

yes but unfortunately it's $1300+
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#10 larry45
Member since 2004 • 345 Posts

I was never under the impression that Samsung is superior to LG. I thought they were on the same page.

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