Do not use any plastic unless it's anti-static! Cardboard box can hold static charge too, but you should be fine with cardboard, just do not rub the box into anything when carrying. You should put the hardware the way that those pins doesn't contact with the cardboard along the way. And remember to ground yourself when you're about to touch the hardware, best way to do this is to simply touch your kitchen/wc tap.
[QUOTE="zxl"]higher DPI meand higher pixel tracking, so to put it simply, the more you got DPI the more accurate your mouse pointer is.simplyderp
I thought DPI meant the amount of pixels the pointer will move per inch that the mouse is moved. No effect on accuracy, unless you raise it too high and then the accuracy gets worse. Do you mean polling rate?
Now that you mention it, I might got it wrong in my head. I'll look into it 'cause I'm info freak. Basically what I meant above was that, higher DPI mouse reads the pixels more accurately and such moves more accurately around, this being said I'd like to start a new post "What DPI in mouse really mean" :)
2 steps to victory: 1. Buy yourself amplifier or preamp which fits between your soundcard and headphones. 2. Change the volume up to 100% from your software and manually change the volume from the amp. You are victorious!
Sounds like the fan is at it's last breath. If you still got the warranty for the card just send it to the importer, or the place you bought it from, and they'll replace it. If the warranty has expired, just buy a new fan for 10-20$ and you'll be fine. (Or a whole new cooler)
Just let the cord lie on the desk you're using it on and you'll be fine switching from cordless. I have got the MX518 for about two years now and it works like a charm, which is a good deal for 22 bucks. That other mouse being such a bargain, you should buy them both. Either way with MX518 you're not going to be disappointed. and btw. higher DPI meand higher pixel tracking, so to put it simply, the more you got DPI the more accurate your mouse pointer is.
- Intel Pentium II 350Mhz - 768Mb SDRAM (66mhz or 100mhz) - VooDoo 2 16Mb AGP - Thrustmaster Wheel+pedals (serial connect) - WD 10Gb IDE HDD It was fast back then.
Have you 'clean' and reinstalled your drivers, checked BIOS-settings? Is your PSU efficient enough? You should get a new fan for your GPU cooler if it grinds or a whole new cooler -system...
For a non SLI system you'll get by with 500W. Just buy a good brand such as Antec, Coolermaster, Fortron, Corsair, Nexus. If you're cheapskate and buy some unbranded and misspelled 650W PSU, the real continuous power you'll ever get is around 400W and some of the cheap models could even kill your other components if the protection system fails or it doesn't even have one. Your Wattage needs depends on the components you'll hook up to the PSU. If you know what you'll get to your system, tell us and it's easier to recommend.
I searched the web and I noticed that there's not so many good fixes for this particular problem with COD:BO so I'll take the time to write off what I've learned. I have Windows 7 64-bit and I had problem starting my COD:BO. Game got stucked at the "press any key" screen everytime I tried to play. So my problem was that my processor (Intel C2D E8400) utilized only 1 core. I think this is something to do with ACPI update from Microsoft (thanks ms, good job!). This is problem for both, Intel and AMD processor users. It all went away, when I updated my BIOS and checked that the ACPI setting was set to auto. (mobo: AsRock 1600Twins-P35) It was risky but definitely worth it. Some of you might just get your unutilized cores to work going to: cmd -> msconfig -> boot -> advanced opt. and set number of processor box unchecked and HAL option on. (I did not have that HAL option in my options, so I won't say a thing more about that) Some of you might just get it to work with Windows repair too, so if you're not willing to risk your BIOS I suggest you try repair your windows first.
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