I have no problem with any of his picks. He specifically says that they're his picks, not the best by consensus, which is what I was aiming for in the FAQ. I also haven't heard of many of the brands he recommends, which is great, since I get to weed through Head-Fi reviews and find out what other listeners thought. Great read; thanks for the link. Also, did you see Head-Fi's Summer Buying Guide? They've got more of a widely-accepted great headphones theme going on, and it's a good read. Happy gaming, Boz
Did you read the Headphone FAQ? It has multiple recommendations in your price range. Note that you're coming from an open-back headphone in the Super Lux, so you might want to focus on something from Grado if you want a similar sound. Note also that harshness to which you are referring is called sibilance. If you continue to do research you'll want to use the term, especially if you visit Head-Fi. Good luck, Boz
Not to give you buyer's remorse, but I wish you'd stopped by here before buying all that equipment. Odds are between the denizens of these forums we could find you a superior system at less money. If you can return the products you have, let me know where you live (I might be able to recommend local deals), your total budget and objectives, we can probably get your home-theater to perform double-duty as surround sound for your computer, and superior headphones that will work as both a headset and headphones. Happy gaming, Boz
Have you read through the Headphone FAQ at the top of the AV Forums? Sometimes I don't know why I even put the effort into that sticky! Happy gaming, Boz
Since this is specific to the Astro Mixamp, why not try Astro's proprietary forums? They will have the most experience and be able to provide you with detailed answers specific to the Mixamp.
You'd think so, right? But if you look at, say, Rockford Fosgate, they've got three amplifiers that are rated at 500W RMS. Each one, however, has different size capacitors, power supplies, efficiencies, etc. So it can be tough to wade through the crap for a neophyte. Also, you can't really compare amplifiers designed for AC to those in a car audio environment. For example, the stellar Sure Electronics amps from Parts Express look great on paper- until you realized that the input voltage is only rated 0 - 500mV. Most car stereo receivers put out somewhere between 1.8V to as much as 6V, which would damage the amplifier. Similarly, I don't think those B&O amps are built for mobile specs: They're designed for an AC power supply with its own DC converter, though it's getting a bit complicated for me at that point. Happy gaming, Boz
Oh, there are tons of better options for subwoofers at lower prices in terms of pure performance, but from the original post Mkavanaugh77 was looking for JL Audio specifically. In the car audio space brand is as much a status symbol as an indicator of quality, and JL Audio has both, though you pay for it. I wouldn't go for the Seas, though, due to the peak vs. RMS power handling. Car subs take a lot of punishment from users, and really do need all the fancy butyl rubber surrounds, composite cones, etc. to withstand said abuse. That's not to say alternatives aren't out there for less. Those two JL w3's (basically JL's mid-range sub) run $560 CAD for a pair. A fully enclosed pair of Kicker CVR 12's - two 12's in a ported box - can be had for about $350 USD plus shipping, and handles 800w RMS. Or a pair of 10" Pioneer Premier Champion Pro subs can be had for under $150, and will theoretically handle more power. The same goes for subs from Kicker, Kenwood, Rockford Fosgate, etc. I'm partial to the Alpine's Type-R subs, which are a bit more pricey, but which I've found to have very high-quality construction, a very controlled sound, and high output. The same goes for amplifiers, too, though it can be very tough to discern quality amplifiers from their crappier cousins even from reputable brands. Happy gaming, Boz
The cards have completely different chipsets. I believe the DG is actually superior if you're only using it with Headphones, while the DX is a better option if you're going surround sound with external speakers. Namelessplayer will know better than I do, though, when it comes to sound cards. He's the resident expert in that arena. Happy gaming, Boz
Any amplifier capable of between 500w and 1,000w RMS will do a very good job of powering those speakers. Note that if you're going for pure volume, you can get by with slightly less power in a ported enclosure and accomplish similar volume levels due to the higher efficiency of ported enclosures, though you sacrifice some stability. Considering your criteria the JL Audio XD600 is probably going to be your ideal amp, from the site you listed. Note that you'll want to use a 50amp wiring kit with 4AWG wiring minimum. If you're adding more than one amp for your other speakers you'll need a bigger wiring kit. You'll also need an enclosure for those subs. Ideally you want to build one yourself to the manufacturer's spec, but if you're not comfortable doing that you should by a quality pre-fabricated enclosure within the size range recommended. The enclosure makes a huge, HUGE difference in the output of your subwoofers in terms of both volume and quality. An enclosure not built to spec can make a $400 sub sound like a $50 sub. Lastly, I almost always recommend a 12" sub unless you lack the space. A 10" sub is smaller, but you sacrifice some low-end extension. Let me know if you have any additional questions. I'm a former MECP-certified car audio installer, and happy to help. Happy gaming, Boz
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