They each went up to 80 I believe. 40-50 was required to make them audible for basic music listening. Even 80 isn't that loud. With my Onkyo I don't even have to try. It goes to 70 and its loud enough at 20. Features are what you want to look for these days, but I'm convinced the PSU plays a big part.ChubbyGuy40

• Sensitivity - Using the same stereo to power two different sets of speakers will get vastly different volume levels. Klipsch speakers, for example, and known for being "sensitive," so they'll be louder than other speakers at the same volume level in most circumstances.
• Scale - My receiver actually goes from -80db to 0db. That's right: Negative. A user at the linked site says it best, "Properly speaking, you are not turning your stereo up when you are turning it up -- you are throttling it less. At the zero point, you are not throttling it at all." The discussion is actually quite entertaining if you care to click.
• Power - This is the most obvious one, and the one you are alluding to when you mention the PSU. The capability of the PSU to provide sufficient amperage to the amplifier stage allows that section to create the power for your speakers.

If all of this sounds confusing, that's because it is, which is why I try to keep my recommendations basic and avoid discussions of power. Unless you're really into stereos and are looking to match drivers with power output or take on some heavy DIY work, 99% of consumers need to look at features and reliability rather than power and the underlying hardware.

I have no idea why I decided to write all that. :P

Boz

To be frank, the prejudice and preferences for one brand over another is largely silly. In my experience receivers have reached a point where they're all going to sound very, very similar, since their amplifier section is going to be limited by their digital audio processors, and their digital audio processing chips are - for the most part - all licensed from one of two or three firms. Unless you're getting a bottom-of-the-barrel Coby, no worries. The relative (keyword) levels of distortion in, say,a Sherwood versus a Onkyo at the same price point is going to be inaudible. It's not like back in the day where one tube actually wasn't as good as another and you'd get amplifier hiss or a turn-on thump; most of the solid-state amp technology from receiver to receiver is interchangable. A $500 receiver from Marantz isn't going to sound a whole heck of a lot different than one from Sony so long as they both support the formats you want(Dolby 5.1/7.1 DTS ES, etc.). Every manufacturer takes their competitor's products apart and cribs.

Much more important for consumers is going to be the number of inputs and outputs, video pass-through and upscaling to 1080p, additional effects like auto-calibration, and other features of the processor having little to do with the amplifier section. By far the mostsignificant considerationis going to be broad consumer evaluation to determine if there is a pattern in problems with a specific model, just as you would a car. Particular makes and models may be prone to specific issues, such as the rear channels failing after a few months or overheating, but this is model by model and not make by make. Sound quality is not usually a concern for anything under four figures.

- = -

Really, can you tell the difference?

Yamaha has three lines of products: The HTR, RX, and Aventage lines. They are designed mostly for different distribution models, but in general the HTR is going to be a more mainstream and entry-level line, the RX is your full-line of receivers (including the amazing RX-Z11, which is over $5,000), and the Aventage line that caters more towards high-end home-theater and digital media users. Yamaha's modeling system general sees a sizable improvement in quality - meaning a change in the quality of the circuitry, such as larger capacitors - in the 1,000's lineup, meaning the RX-A1000 is a significant improvement over the RX-A800, but the RX-A800 is not as significant an improvement over the RX-A700. Yamaha's basic products sold at Best Buy and similar mainstream outlets are going to be of a lower quality, generally speaking, than what you'll find at specialty retailers and boutiques carrying their higher-end stuff.

This response was more for perspective than specific guidance, but I think it's worth thinking about. Not quite as fun as saying, "Onkyo sucks!" and "No, Yamaha sucks!" though, from an internet conversation standpoint. :P

Boz

TL/DR - Ignore brand and look for features of multiple models at your price point, and whether there are consistent reviews showing a pattern of complaints for your model.

@Boz - I say we put some sound cards on there because everyone in the PC Hardware forum swear that nothing is an upgrade from onboard sound unless you own very expensive speakers/headphones, which of course is completely false.

ChubbyGuy40

This is important; it's why you see a lot of great reviews for Trittons and Turtle Beach headphones: They're being evaluated in a vaccuum. Every review I've read where they're actually compared side-by-side with cans like the HD595s or similar the reviewer says, "These gaming headsets don't even compare from a sound quality, perspective." For the same reason most gamers are going to love Trittons or Turtle Beach headphones. They have neat effects and tons of features (like Bluetooth), and nothing to really compare them against save maybe their stock iPod buds. But you know, many people are very happy with them.

That's why I agree that some recommendations of said headsets are warranted. Traditional 2.0 cans do not offer discrete surround reproduction, wireless, bluetooth, phone call support, and a built-in mic. There might be hiss from the built-in amp and reduced SQ, but they're still a desirable product for some gamers, and in an FAQ readers want comparisons between them. I still believe traditional headphones offer superior value and performance in most cases, especially in wired setups, but I already make that case in the body of original post.

It's important to match people with the right product for them. For headphones this sometimes means foregoing SQ in favor of features. As I continue to research, I will be updating the above, and may add in some sound card recommendations like the Asus Xonar Essence STX and SoundBlaster Titanium HD for the EMI shielding and built-in headphone amp as time permits. Doing so, however, can lead to more in-depth discussions about EAX support, and that's not something I'm keen to delve into.

Happy gaming,

Boz

"The base station has one optical input and one optical output, which functions to pass through audio to a home theater receiver. A pair of analog RCA inputs also functions as a secondary input. There's no button to choose between the two. The analog inputs are enabled when you turn off whatever device is plugged into the optical inputs.

If you have more than one console or want to make multiple optical sources wireless, you're out of luck unless you have a home theater receiver with optical outputs."Source

That said, it does have bluetooth support, so you can pair it with, say, your iPhone and use it for both listening to music and answering calls. However, if you want to connect it to your PS3 AND computer at the same time you'll need an optical switch.

Happy gaming,

Boz

Omitted Headphones

I've added a few of the aforementioned suggestions where the price-points warranted another option, but it's worth reiterating that the list is not comprehensive. The listed headphones represent a very good value for their price range and have reviewed well, but adding more than a couple in a particular price point is only going to result in a reader saying, "Well, okay, but which one of these is best?" I only wanted to narrow it down enough so that their final decision can be based on styIe, availability, and/or features such as a detachable cord.


Bias against surround headphones

I've given it some thought, but I cannot agree that this entry is biased. Bias is an unfair preference for or dislike of something. I am not being unfair to surround headphones: My reasons for not believing in them are described and disclosed for the reader in the second paragraph. It's not that I personally dislike the headphones for qualitative reasons, it's that they offer a poor value and subpar performance relative to other available options. It would be unfair if I had said, "Surround Sound headphones suck," or if I received compensation from a headphone manufacturer, but I provide valid, defined reasons to the reader early in the FAQ and have no such affiliation. I am not disputing that this post contains my opinion, but I do dispute that my commentary is biased.

That said, despite myself I do, in fact, agree with your point. As I reconsider, surround sound headphones are not designed to do the same thing as traditional headphones. Many gamers are sold on the design and are going to buy one regardless: It would be beneficial to have recommendations so that they can get a decent product within the category.

It will take me some time to acquire this new information, however, as I had difficulty in my first go around getting consistent recommendations in the category relative to traditional headphones, so for now I've marked this section as *Recommendations Pending*.


USB vs "standard" 3.5mm jack

If you have a computer and use the 3.5mm jack, you are getting the audio as decoded and amplified by either your on-board audio or sound card, as applicable. A USB option is going to be as good as its included DAC and amplifier: Some USB cards are excellent, and some are not. The Asus Xonar U3, for example, is competitive with dedicated audio cards using a separate headphone amplifier. Other USB cards may use cheaper components and sound terrible; it varies dramatically.


Sound Card Recommendations

I wanted to mention that I felt this was somewhat outside the scope of the FAQ and more suited to PC Hardware or its own FAQ. It's a close call and worth discussing since sound cards support headphones, but probably rare enough that any questions around sound cards can be answered in the forum on a one-off basis. I also find it unlikely anyone would click on a Headphone FAQ for sound card recommendations, and the point of a FAQ is to reduce redundant thread posts.

Happy gaming,

Boz

Honestly, there is little difference from receiver to receiver at any particular price point.It's not like home theaters in a box or headphones wherequality varies widely from product to product; most any $500 receiver from a reputable brand is going to yield similar performance.I personally prefer Yamaha, because I have liked their amplifier topology in the past, but it's been years since I've looked at such details. In general, Sony is looked poorly upon, though their Sony ES line of mid-range amplifiers have done well.

• Denon
• Harmon Kardon
• Marantz
• Onkyo
• Pioneer
• Yamaha

Note that the Denon AVR-1911 is particularly popular at your pricepoint, so I'd start there. Take a look at these receivers and review their HDMI options, then think hard about where you purchase your receiver. Personally I find the place you purchase from is as important as the product when it comes to something as complex as a receiver; there's a lot that can go wrong during shipment and you will probably want the option to return it in the first 30 days, at least, if you're not satisfied or something is not working properly.

Good luck,

Boz

The cheapest way to get sound is to beatbox it yourself on-the-fly. For inspiration, consider watching some old Michael Winslow in Spaceballs and Police Academy, or listen the the track, "Donkey Kong," by DJ Jazzy Jeff & The Fresh Prince.

Good luck,

Boz

It's come to my attention that these forums are sorely in need of a sticky for headphone information and recommendations considering the number of questions received about gaming headsets. To that end I have cobbled together the above, but it still needs editing and, probably, corrections. I know more than the average person about driver design, speaker building, and consumer electronics, but I am by no means a headphone expert. Please feel free to respond with thoughts, suggestions, comments, recommendations, and particularly corrections. I will make changes as appropriate.

Keep in mind that Gamespot's typical user is not an audiophile, meaning they are looking for a good value to support their video game experience, in most cases. The Beyerdynamic Tesla T1 buyer is going to be a rarity here. As such, ensure your suggestions are targeted at typical consumers rather than audiophiles.

Happy gaming,

Boz

Selecting headphones is a combination of your:

1. Price point
2. Usage preferences (running, gaming, etc.)
3. Personal taste
4. and filtering out marketing hype from truth

The biggest challenge is determining at what price threshold you will be happy with your purchase. If you take nothing else away from the following, not this: Because headphone satisfaction is largely subjective, pay careful attention to the return policy of the retailer from whom you buy in the event you are dissatisfied with your purchase.

HEADPHONE TYPES AND TERMS

• Over-ear - The cups are large enough to go around your ears
• On-ear - The cups rest against your ears
• Earbuds and IEMs - These sit in the ear canal. In the case of in-ear monitors (IEMs), they create an airtight seal.
• Headsets - Headphones with a permanent attached microphone
• Open vs. Closed-Back - On- and over-ear headphones can either be sealed or open. Open-back headphones generally have a wider soundstage and better environmental positioning, closed-back headphones seal-out ambient noise and provide better bass response. These are rules of thumb; there may be exceptions by model.
• Noise Canceling vs. Noise Blocking - Noise-canceling headphones record incoming audio and produce a "counter-wave," effectively canceling out external noise. Noise-canceling headphones require a power source. Noise blocking headphones reduce external noise passively through a closed-back design, dampening, and/or airtight seal. Noise-canceling headphones typically sacrifice some sound quality to reduce overall noise.

RECOMMENDATIONS - HEADPHONES

Approximate prices are new from a reputable retailer

$0 - $20
Over-the-ear - Koss UR 20 (~$17), Koss TD-61 (~$20)
Earbuds - JVC HA-FX34P (~$15), Panasonic RP-HJE160-A (~$12)
On-ear - Koss KSC 75 (~$14)

$21 - $40
Over-the-ear - Sennheiser HD 202 MK II (~$30), JVC HARX700 (~$35)
Earbuds - Denon AH-C360 (~$40), Sony MDR-EX57LP (~$27)
On-ear - Sony MDR-Q68LW (~$22)

$41 - $80
Over-the-ear - Creative Labs Aurvana Live! (~$70), Sony MDR-V6 (~$65), JVC HARX900 (~$60)
Earbuds - Maximo iMetal iM590 (~$45), Etymotic MC5 (~$66), Sennheiser adidas PMX 680 (~$60)
On-ear - Grado SR 60i (~$79), Beyerdynamic DTX 35 (~$43)

$81 - $120
Over-the-ear - Sennheiser PX 200-II (~$86), AKG Acoustics K-240 (~$90), Audio Technica ATH-AD700 (~$100)
Earbuds - Klipsch Image S4 (~$80), Yuin PK2 (~$80), Etymotic ER-6i (~$85), Shure SE115 (~$92)
On-ear - Grado SR 80i (~$100), Sony MDR-7506 (~$85)

$121 - $200
Over-the-ear - Audio-Technica ATH-M50 (~$150), Ultrasone HFI-780 (~$150)
Earbuds - Etymotic HF3 (~$140), HiFiMan RE-262 (~$150)
On-ear - Grado SR 125i (~$150), V-Moda M80 (~$200)

$201 - up
Over-the-ear - Sennheiser HD598 (~$250), Denon AH-D2000 (~$260), AKG Q701 (~$270), Sennheiser HD 800 (~$1,500)
Earbuds - Klipsch X-10i (~$250), Grado GR10 (~$400), EArsonics SM3 (~$300)
On-ear - Grado SR 225i (~$200), Audio-Technica ATH-ESW9A (~$270), Grado RS1i (~$600)

CONSOLE MICROPHONE ADAPTORS

Consider the following adaptors to allow use of a headphone/mic combo with your:

• XBox360 - You will need an inexpensive adaptor (Example 1, Example 2), but it should be fairly simple plug-and-play once you've acquired one.
• PS3 - You will need an inexpensive adaptor (Example 1, Example 2), but it should be fairly simple plug-and-play once you've acquired one.
• PC or Mac - All modern PC and Mac hardware will have both a headphone and mic option on their soundcard, be it an internal or external card, or motherboard audio.

Alternatively, you can use a headphone amplifier like the Bravo V2 (see Headphone Amplifiers, below) with your analog audio output (the red/white RCAs) to your headphones, though this will prevent you from using that analog output to your display or home theater system.

The best solution for console gamers in terms of both convenience and quality is the Astro Mixamp, which makes it very easy to connect your headphone and mic to your console of choice, includes all the required cables, provides a built-in headphone amplifier, and Dolby Headphone processing, if you prefer it. The Mixamp retails for about $130.

RECOMMENDATIONS - MICROPHONES

There are two inexpensive microphone options:

• The Zalman ZM-Mic1, which is an inexpensive, high-quality, omnidirectional microphone you can easily pair with any set of headphones
• You can also use the Labtec LVA7330 Clearvoice Head Microphone, a slightly more expensive boom mic, which requires some minor modifications to attach to your headphones. The boom mic will give your receiver more isolated audio, and is more appropriate to noisy environments.

If having a separate cord bothers you, some inexpensive split-loom or even simple bread-ties can help keep your cords organized.

RECOMMENDATIONS - HEADSETS

It is usually preferable to use a separate headphone and mic from both an audio quality and value standpoint, but headsets do offer convenience in setup and build. If you musthave a headset with a boom mic, consider the following:

• Creative Fatal1ty Gaming Headset (~$40)
• Beyerdynamic MMX 2 (~$80)
• Sennheiser PC161 (~$120)
• Sennheiser PC360 (~$200)
• Beyerdynamic MMX300 (~$400)

HEADPHONE "SURROUND SOUND" EXPLAINED

Headphones marketed as "Dolby Headphones" are - except in very rare cases - nothing more than Dolby-licensed two-channel headphones. The use of 5.1 or 7.1 to describe these headphones is more than a little misleading. Dolby Headphone processing is not native to the headphone, but to its processor, which is included in most modern sound cards. But don't take it from me, take it from Dolby, who licenses the technology (and its logo):

"All of this information is combined by the Dolby Headphone processor into two encoded channels that deliver the spatial properties of the original audio, with more natural sounds that actually seem to be 'out-of-head.'"

"...with Dolby Headphone no special headphones are required. The process works well with wired or wireless headphones ranging from inexpensive airline headsets to high-end electrostatic sets, although higher-quality headphones deliver a higher-quality listener experience."

(Source)

To truly reproduce 5.1 or 7.1 surround sound your headphones need to have discrete drivers for each channel and native digital surround content. In a 7.1 setup this means four speakers in each ear (since the center channel is matrixed), three left for rear, side, and front, and three right for the same. You'll have a fourth driver on both sides for your subwoofer channel. The headphones would require seperate analog signals from your sound card or have their own digital DAC (digital to analog converter), DSP (digital signal processor), and decoder.

Dolby Headphone does not necessarily reproduce 5.1 or 7.1 discrete channels. From their own site, "Delivers realistic 5.1-channel sound from any set of headphones...Dolby Headphone accurately creates the sensation of up to five loudspeakers in a room using powerful digital signal processing (DSP) technology." The Dolby Headphone Turtle Beach PX5, for example, only has two speakers (two 50mm drivers). The same with the Astro A40's: two 40mm drivers.

Dolby Headphone is just a manner of processing audio to simulate surround sound, not to accurately reproduce the effect. Discrete headphones are rare, expensive, and not necessarily any better than their 2-channel counterparts. The Tritton AX Pros are one of the only "real" surround sound headphones of which I am aware (and I've been looking).

Surround sound is really meant to be experienced in an open room, not attached to your head. I hope this helps. You can read more marketing doctrine from Dolby at their web site, if you'd like. (Source)

SOUND CARDS

If you are using the analog output of your PC - the headphone jack or other analog outputs - you will experience better audio from a dedicated card versus the motherboard's built-in audio processor. A sound card does a better job at converting that digital source material to an analog format, isolating the audio components from the motherboard components, and amplifying it for your headphones. This does not guarantee distortion-free sound: Issues with the power supply or other motherboard interference can still occur, but is likely to improve quality.

The big question: Will the average PC gamer notice? The answer is: It depends. If you notice a lot of crackling, buzzing, or other distortion while you're gaming, it's probably time for a dedicated card. If you're looking for hardware support for particular audio effects not provided by your board - such as Dolby Headphone, CMSS-3D, or certain versions of EAX - you will need a dedicated card.

If you are buying a sound card for the sole purpose of using a headphone or headset, it would be tough to beat the Asus Xonar DG, which is only about $30. It supports Dolby Headphone, the same process used by more expensive "5.1" and "7.1" headphones and headsets, as well as a decent built-in headphone amplifier. So long as you are not also using an external surround sound system, this is an excellent value for headphone-only gamer.

If your PC serves double-duty with your home theater, consider a card that supports both Dolby Headphone and Dolby Digital Live, which encodes Digital Surround on-the-fly. The leap in format support and quality, however, comes with a price tag (~$200) for the Asus "Essence" card line. The benefit is a very robust DAC (Digital to Analog Converter) and amplifier, as well as superior noise isolation and support for additional formats.

For detailed information on audio chipsets, check out The Nameless Guide To PC Gaming Audio at Head-Fi.

HEADPHONE AMPLIFIERS

If you have a great source such as an audio card and high-end headphones, a dedicated headphone amplifier may further improve quality. The additional, dedicated power of an amplifier adds headroom to the signal, giving the audio more range. An entry-level amp like the Bravo V2 can be had for between $20 and $60 on EBay. Anything more advanced like a NuForce amp and it's unlikely you should be reading this thread for advice: Go back to your audiophile forums!


A NOTE FOR CHILDREN

Kidz Gear headphones are inexpensive at about $20, fit young listeners and those with tiny skulls, and have reviewed well. If you are very young or are a "little person," they're worth considering.


A NOTE ON SOURCE MATERIAL

Speakers, be they home theater, car, or headphones, can only reproduce what you give them. If you're playing low-quality MP3s (e.g. 64kbps Bit Rate or less), it's going to sound awful regardless of what you play them on. If you're listening on a desktop PC, you may end up with some ambient electical noise from the motherboard unless you have a dedicated sound card, and even then there's no guarantees.


A NOTE ON NOISE CANCELING

Noise canceling (NC) technology, also known as "Active Noise Control," was developed by Dr. Amar Bose (yes, that Bose) back in the late '70s. Basically, the headphones sample the environmental audio and produce an alternating sound wave, effectively canceling out the noise. This technology was made commercially available in the mid-1980's, and now headphones sporting NC can be found from a variety of manufacturers.

Noise-canceling headphones are situational. They are typically expensive relative to non-NC headphones and require a power source, meaning they usually will not work at all without charged batteries. However, if you spend a lot of time flying, in crowded subways, and similarly high-volume environments, these might be a good choice for you. The Bose Quietcomfort 3's are widely regarded as one of the best noise-canceling headphones available, though many great options are out there.


A NOTE ON BRANDS

Like anything, headphones have their own specialty brands and, within those brands, they typically offer a full-line of products to suit different price brackets. Even traditional "high-end" headphone manufacturers like AKG, Beyerdynamic, and Sennheiser offer two-digit, inexpensive counterparts to their four-figure flagship models. Value brands such as Logitech have their own premium line under the moniker, "Ultimate Ears." For the aforementioned reasons it is important not to give excessive credibility or to preemptively discredit a headphone based solely on its brand. Consider carefully by visiting reputable headphone review sites and forums to evaluate specific models (see "Additional Resources," below).

ADDITIONAL RESOURCES

• HeadRoom - http://www.headphone.com - Headphone reviews, forums, and opinions
• Head-Fi - http://www.head-fi.org/ - Headphone reviews, forums, and opinions
• Stereophile - http://www.stereophile.com/category/headphone-reviews - High-end audio reviewer, though limited headphone resources
• AVS Forums - http://www.avsforum.com - Independent audio enthusiast forums
• Parts Express - http://www.parts-express.com - Retailer; DIY parts and supplies, retail headphones

Contributing and Inspiring Members- Without whom this FAQ would not be possible

• ChubbyGuy40
• NVIDIATI
• markop2003
• Namelessplayer
• -GeordiLaForge-
• Bikouchu35