Otherwise known as Kranjska Gora, Slovenia. Now sitting in my room in the Hotel Vitranc, Podkoren, a similarly empty hotel to the Hotel Berc in Bled, where we are still the only guests. For most of the year, Kransjka Gora is a ski resort. However, most of the snow has melted by now (on the lower, more ski-worthy slopes at least), and so the area is out of season. In town, the Grand Hotel Prisank stands empty, the waiter looking pretty bored as there is no one to serve lunch. The waiter was similarly unhurried in the Pizzeria of the Kotnik Hotel, where we had a nice lunch. I'd guess there might be 20 tourists from somewhere further than Germany in the entire northwest region. There are quiet a few from Italy and Austria. Lujbljana was similarly quiet, full of Slovenians on last (Palm) Sunday, all strolling very quietly through the streets carrying branches. Very serene.
Anyway, the largest distraction that out of season Kranjska Gora has to offer is the world record breaking ski jumps. Only two years ago (Wikipedia confirms), the world ski jumping record was broken here, and now stands at 239m. You can climb up the partially melted jumps to the top, and look down. Moderately exciting, especially the view down. However, after you have done that, all you can realistically do is admire the majestic mountain ranges, look at some old farmhouses, then go to the tiny Russian Chapel high on Mt. Prisank. It was built by the Russian prisoners of war during the First World War, for some of their friends who died in an avalanche. It was very pretty, but locked, so we just stood outside in the snow and admired it for a minute before climbing back into the car, and moving back down the mountain.
Kranjska Gora itself is a sad little place, which looks like it has seen better days. All of the hotels (of which there must be more than 30) are mostly empty, the shops, either shut or abandoned, and the main square looks like they are in the middle of building it. I'm very sure that in the ski season, this entire valley must come to life, as there are dozens of partially melted runs on the mountain sides. But right now, there is truely not much. If you are forced to stay here, you can do one of two things: walk, or go somewhere else. We've done both, going to Venice yesterday (a very tourist orientated place), and walking a bit today and the day before yesterday. I can't imagine what the locals do for entertainment.
Actually, there is a group of them outside my window, talking at great length, and laughing heartily every so often. They seem perfectly content to sit, drink and talk. The border with Italy (and the unspeakabley ugly town of Tarvisio) is only 10km away, but I doubt they go there even once a month. Similarly, the Austrian Border and city of Klagenfurt aren't very far away. They farm their hay (the International Festival of Hay is held here each year, I am not joking), and then sit and look and their mountains again. A real quiet life. And now I must stop, because I am being given alarming messages concerning battery power on this laptop.
Dr. Brading.
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