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Neo_revolution7

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#1 Neo_revolution7
Member since 2008 • 2088 Posts

I'll probably get lynched for saying so, but coming from a string of high-end air coolers, I really like the cheap closed-loop mini-water-coolers-in-a-box like the H50 if you can grab them on sale. The sheer amount of space NOT being taken up around the CPU socket for a change is mind-boggling, and they compete well enough with the high end air (though they get totally destroyed by even a budget 'real' WC setup) that I'm happy.Makari

they aren't bad for what they are, the H50 is fine for the price but the 100 dollar price tag on the h70 just doesn't suite me :|

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#2 Neo_revolution7
Member since 2008 • 2088 Posts

I dont see a need for water cooling when a heatsink like the hyper 212+ should be good for your overclocking needs.Nick3306

i saw the need for it being my Cpu needed 1.32V just for 4.2 with HT/Turbo :P

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#3 Neo_revolution7
Member since 2008 • 2088 Posts

i also forgot to tell you also when you are only jumping your psu to leak test your loop.

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#4 Neo_revolution7
Member since 2008 • 2088 Posts

I wish to purchase a water cooler, but my only fear is of a leak that will damage my very expensive rig. I do not mind the cost and would really appreciate the improved performance by it removing more heat and making less noise, but not at the cost of losing my system.

Just how much of a risk is it and which out of the two would you recommend?

Stunneronureyez

here is what you are going to want to do to get started. 1 theres two ways to go about this, your own custom loop or get a kit, by kit i mean swiftech its the only kit that is good enough in that area. 2 if you want to go with a custom Loop for your cpu you will need the following:

Cpu Block: i Recommend either Danger Den/ Switech apogee/ or Heatkiller, Koolance has some good Blocks also. make sure it comes with a back plate or if you purchase a Heatkiller Cpu block get the back plate that goes with it. you will also need to go by socket type.

Resivior: You can either get a bay resivior or an internal one if you prefer. Bits power has some good ones but there are better. another thing you will need to do is clean your rad with a mix of distilled water and vinegar to get out any junk in the res that wad caught up when it was being fabricated.

Pump: Swiftech or Danger Den has a good selection.

Radiator: These Range from single to Quadruple but being if your only going to set up only a cpu loop go for a dual Rad, now if your going to loop your gpu's also go for a triple or quadruple, you will need to buy blocks for your gpu's also koolance and Danger Den have a good selection also. On that note you will need to purchase fans for your Rad. Xps/Koolance/Swiftech have some good rads for a reasonable price.

Tubing (anti Kink Recommended) Tygon/Fesser/primoChill are some good ones. Depending on the size you Decide to use, you are going to need barbs that fit that size tubing, Example: i use 1/2 ID (inner diamiter) 1/8 wall thickness 3/4 OD (outer diamiter) so you will need a 1/2 x 3/4 barb to fit the tube compression barbs are a plus pn makeing the setup look neater. But barbs+clams are just fine.

Third part depending on the case you are using you will most likely need to modify your case, Drilling holes for screws/ Holes for the tubing to fit if you have watercooling holes on the back of your case, also depends on the size of the tubing you purchase.

there are also guides you can read so you can learn how to fill and Drain your loop, but in order to do this you will need to jump your psu by using a paper clip, ( only do this for when Filling your loop and leak testing) when ready to fill your loop with the prefered coolant either distilled water+additives or a all in one coolant EXP: Fesser one you will need bend the paperclip in a U shape, please make sure the psu is turned off when doing this along with all other motherboard connections, you will using the 24pin connector. At this point only put one end of the paper clip into the green wire socket and the other end into the black ground wire socket this way you can jump your psu with out it being connected to the mobo, please and i mean please do this part correctly so you do not mess up your psu.

When that is prepped and ready begin fill the resivior 1/4 way from the top of the res and stop. Turn on the psu and let the res drain then stop when most of the fluid is out of the res do not drain it completely, Rinse and repeat untill the full loop is filled and the res itself is filled up, just do not fill the res to the top leave some space for air to be released from the fluid. You will have some air bubbles but they will go away in time. if you need more info you tube has some Videos on how to Jump your psu please i advise when jumping your psu do it correctly as it can damage your psu. Also for some guides XtremeSytems has one and a couple others do as well it seems hard at first but when you jump into it you will see how fun it is just take your time doing it and you will have a gret loop if done properly. :D

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#5 Neo_revolution7
Member since 2008 • 2088 Posts

SandyBridge didn't convince me because: A) I work with fairly "heavy" programs and triple-channel memory allied with its superior memory bandwith is a plus, besides they Xfire/SLi @ 16x16x instead of 8x8x (NF200 only helps with SLi and even then...). B) "Old" i7's are much cheaper (at least in Portugal they are... and so are motherboards... a "just-as-good-as" skt1155 board is almost 100€ more expensive than the X58A-UD5 from Gygabyte.. and C), because of the overclocking method they inputted in those new SBs making the BCLK fixed and working with multipliers alone, which is never a good idea wjen comes to great stability...

I could also, maybe, wait for those Ivy Bridges coming Q4'2011... but I didn't want to wait that much :(

As for the graphics... is there ANY 6970 with a good non-reference cooler? That's the only reason I am still chosing to go 5870PCS+...

As for the monitor... 300$?? I have no idea how the change rate is now, but the P2370 is around 170€... no way that's as much as 300$... is it? Anyways, what's the problem with being a TN panel? I admit my full ignorance here... I know the differences, but... what are exactly the downsides of a TN vs an IPS? Btw... never purchased anything from Dell... will browse your suggestion, still in time till it's all purchased :)

Zmery

i would wait for socket 2011 looks promising :)

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#6 Neo_revolution7
Member since 2008 • 2088 Posts

The only thing I'm considering upgrading is my i7 930 to a 980x. I'm watching the pricing here in Australia, once the 980x hits a reasonable price (reasonable for an Intel hex core) I'll jump on one. Video card wise I have 2x GTX 480s at the moment, and I can't see a reason to upgrade them at all currently. Maybe when Nvidia release their next round of cards.CellAnimation

well i do know socket 2011 should be here by christmas this year :) be good to follow that also and if you are into watercooling i also the found out the backplate from the 1156 platfor fits on the new 1155 mobo's also so i'm pretty sure its goingt o be the same way with socket 2011 ;)

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#7 Neo_revolution7
Member since 2008 • 2088 Posts

Socekt 2011 for me when its released :p

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#8 Neo_revolution7
Member since 2008 • 2088 Posts

[QUOTE="Neo_revolution7"]yea that is fine but you still have to understand my cpu at 4.2 has my ram running at 1600 now if i were to go to 4.3 or even 4.5 i would be overclocking my ram hence being i might have to loosen my timings unless i have ram rated at 1866 or even 2000 now thats a different scenario.

eBusiness

That, or you could bring the multiplier down a notch.

that you can do also in which you can also get stable clocks.

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#9 Neo_revolution7
Member since 2008 • 2088 Posts

i still don't belive its on a stock cooler...

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#10 Neo_revolution7
Member since 2008 • 2088 Posts

[QUOTE="JigglyWiggly_"][QUOTE="Neo_revolution7"]

if your lucky you might hit 5ghz on air but it all depends on your motherboard cpu and ram, but neways underwater it might really shine i'm still pondering on what to get but i might just wait for socket 2011 and if the holes line up i'm getting a better rad/block and pushing that proc :p

eBusiness

It actually doesn't depend on your ram for Sandy.

If you know what you are doing it hasn't depended on ram for quite a while. Ever since the introduction of memory multiplier all you would need to do is adjust the multiplier accordingly when increasing the FSB.

yea that is fine but you still have to understand my cpu at 4.2 has my ram running at 1600 now if i were to go to 4.3 or even 4.5 i would be overclocking my ram hence being i might have to loosen my timings unless i have ram rated at 1866 or even 2000 now thats a different scenario.