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skinntech

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#1 skinntech
Member since 2005 • 415 Posts
[QUOTE="horgen123"][QUOTE="skinntech"][QUOTE="horgen123"]Nice! I got a question for those (few) who have put water cooling on their GPU. Was the instruction manual clear? After I had removed the old cooler on mine, I checked what the old cooler had been cooling and what the new cooler was supposed to cool down and it wasn't the same parts. The new block wanted to cool down another part as well. That had me confused, especially when the instruction said that not all of these "blocks" will touch the block after putting thermal pads on them, however this is normal and expected because of they are manufactured. :?

I use EK blocks and the instructions seem fine, what do you mean by "that not all of these blocks will touch the block after putting thermal pads on them"? A full block is usually designed to cool the GPU, RAM, and VRM's and that's what their designed to touch, if its making contact with the pcb or anything thats not one of the fore mentioned items then the block is not designed for that board. some pics would be nice, then i would really know whats going on. also who makes the block?

It is an EK block... The instructions scroll down to the bottom of page 1, read the note they put up there... Those "blocks" wasn't cooled by the previous cooler I had.

It should be fine, the reason they are having you put down some thermal tape on the "inductors" is not to cool them, they just want to make sure that the copper of the waterblock does not come in contact with them and short the board out. The thermal tape they gave you with the Waterblock is non conductive so they just want you to cover the top of the Inductors with it just as a precaution and not as a heat dissipation. It is perfectly fine just do what the instructions say and everything will be ok.
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skinntech

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#2 skinntech
Member since 2005 • 415 Posts
[QUOTE="horgen123"]Nice! I got a question for those (few) who have put water cooling on their GPU. Was the instruction manual clear? After I had removed the old cooler on mine, I checked what the old cooler had been cooling and what the new cooler was supposed to cool down and it wasn't the same parts. The new block wanted to cool down another part as well. That had me confused, especially when the instruction said that not all of these "blocks" will touch the block after putting thermal pads on them, however this is normal and expected because of they are manufactured. :?

I use EK blocks and the instructions seem fine, what do you mean by "that not all of these blocks will touch the block after putting thermal pads on them"? A full block is usually designed to cool the GPU, RAM, and VRM's and that's what their designed to touch, if its making contact with the pcb or anything thats not one of the fore mentioned items then the block is not designed for that board. some pics would be nice, then i would really know whats going on. also who makes the block?
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skinntech

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#3 skinntech
Member since 2005 • 415 Posts
[QUOTE="RevanBITW"]My new rig, first PC I've built myself http://www.gamereplays.org/community/uploads/post-76077-1374821500.jpg http://www.gamereplays.org/community/uploads/post-76077-1374821512.jpg And zero **** given to cable management. YOLO

kudos man, it's nice to see people getting into the DIY pc!!
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#4 skinntech
Member since 2005 • 415 Posts
[QUOTE="soolkiki"]

[QUOTE="superclocked"]Looks good.. I went with red coolant this time around, too..superclocked

Nice! I like the red!

Yeah, red is nice. I prefer the color blue, but after almost 10 years of everything in my PC being blue, I decided it was time for a change. I'll get some pics up when I get my new power supply tomorrow...

Thanks man. Yeah I really like the red I do feel i should warn anyone that decides to use EK Coolant Red, the earlier versions of this coolant will stain tubing and cause buildup in all the blocks and radiators. From what I understand the older version comes in a black labeled bottle and usually has a visible layer of dye built up around the bottom of the bottle you can see it cloud up if you shake the bottle. If you have this version look out its going to be problems down the road if not and your coolant came in a white label bottle, the new formula, it should not have those problems but since it's not really tested yet I can't say for sure whether it will or will not gunk up the blocks/radiators. I bought this knowing the chance I was taking, just know this if you decide to use EK coolants.
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#5 skinntech
Member since 2005 • 415 Posts

[QUOTE="The_Animator23"][QUOTE="JimmyJumpy"]

Like in, you know, not enough room?

pawq4

A tower barely takes up any space....

This^

Even if you live in an apartment or a dorm, you don't have a desk to shove a desktop under?

some people live in closets, don't hate. by the way I'm using a http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16834231001 as my school laptop, even though its refurbished its been a great laptop. It handles Maya, Mudbox, z-brush, Udk, Photoshop and NDO2 like a champ! I think asus is a good call if you need a laptop. I can't imagine anyone putting more stress on a laptop then I do and it handles it great.
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#7 skinntech
Member since 2005 • 415 Posts

[QUOTE="skinntech"][QUOTE="LordEC911"]Placebo effect.

LordEC911

http://www.amd.com/us/products/desktop/graphics/7000/7970ghz/Pages/radeon-7970GHz.aspx#2 not placebo, that 750 was shy for that system I'm surprised it didn't crash frequently.

AMD and Nvidia or any other manufacturer is going to be very conservative with any minimum requirements...

Feel free to check any sort of realworld power usage charts.
His system will peak ~550-600w max and realworld gaming ~450-500w. Now if he is overclocking, that is a different story.

Not sure why someone would build a $1500-$2000 rig and use a $60 PSU though. I guess everyone has to start somewhere. 
Glad you finally decided to wise up and buy a decent PSU, but now you went way the opposite way and overspent, unless you are planning on upgrading again. 

he reported artifacts and performance issues all associated with under powered psu. you always want the power supply to hover just slightly below its 80% output, depending on the rating of the power supply his was obviously not keeping up with the system hence the artifacts and such. in this case amd is right, its always better to error on the side of too much rather then not enough.
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#8 skinntech
Member since 2005 • 415 Posts

Placebo effect.

LordEC911
http://www.amd.com/us/products/desktop/graphics/7000/7970ghz/Pages/radeon-7970GHz.aspx#2 not placebo, that 750 was shy for that system I'm surprised it didn't crash frequently.
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#9 skinntech
Member since 2005 • 415 Posts
I showed this system on this forum after I first built it. The first time I needed it up and running asap for school so it didn't get the treatment it deserved, so now its summer break I thought I would revisit the project. I still have some more stuff to do, I think I'm going to fabricate another plate/box with a window to hide the HD cages but allow you to see the drives. Got a few more light hideaways to build too, you can see that one strip sticking out a little more then the rest of the backplate that is a light hideaway and I'd like to make 2 more and I still have to cut the door window in. once everything is done I'll probably get back to overclocking and testing. 2700k asrock z77 fatality pro xfx 7950 black corsair 750w ocz 256 agility 3/ samsung 840 pro 256 / deskstar 1tb watercooling: laing dd5/xspc bay rez/ xspc 360 rx +120 rx sythe 120 fans/ dangerden m6/ ek 7950 full block acetal/ tygon 3603 1/2 ID 3/4 OD/ ek coolant red
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#10 skinntech
Member since 2005 • 415 Posts
[QUOTE="Postmortem123"]

[QUOTE="ArchDemon123"] No, but it's about time i do, just have to get a better camera though :PArchDemon123

Did you get a reference-cooled 7970? I forgot ^_^

Yeah, the price was just too damn good for my country, i ended up getting it for 280 pounds through a reseller, and the non reference cooled sold for about 380-400 pounds, more expensive since the reseller where i got the parts from didn't even had non reference cooled cards :O

reference design is always easier to find a waterblock for anyway. I have a 7950 mated to a ek full cover block and its more then i could have ever expected in terms of temps and performance. gratz though thats a great card and its nice to see other people with amd cards.